Best of Both Worlds—The Nikon D780 Combines the Advantages of the D750 and Z 6

A little over 2 years ago, I did some extensive testing of the Nikon D5, D750, D810 and the then-newly released D850. The comparison was to determine which was the best camera for night photography. I concluded that the answer depended on your needs and budget––I recommended the D750 as a great camera at an extraordinary value, the D850 for those who make large prints on a regular basis, and the D5 for sports and wildlife photographers who also shoot at night and who have a healthy budget.

Then, in September 2019, Gabe wrote a post exclaiming hands-down that “the Nikon Z 6 is the best camera for night photography.” I’ve had a few opportunities to use the Z 6 at night since then, and it’s an awesome camera for sure.

Then I recently had the chance to work with the newly released Nikon D780, courtesy of B&H Photo. It’s widely reported that the Z 6 and D780 share the same sensor, and the comparative images I’ve shot indeed look very similar. But there is one subtle difference that makes the image quality of the D780 ever so slightly better than that of the Z 6, especially for night photography in extreme low light. More on that later.

This rundown of the D780 is not intended to be a general review for everyone considering a new camera, but is rather tailored to the needs of the night photographer. If you are a wedding, wildlife or sports photographer, or someone who shoots a lot of video, then my review may be of limited usefulness to you. In this article, I’ll evaluate the camera based on image quality at high ISOs in extreme low-light situations, for long exposures, and also in mixed artificial low-light situations typically found in urban areas at night. I’ll also be discussing the various features and functions as they relate to night photography in general.

Rattle Dragon meets its match. Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1.3 seconds, f/4, ISO 6400. This image has been processed in Photoshop for effect.

Key Features

The camera features a 24.5-megapixel FX-Format BSI CMOS sensor and EXPEED 6 Processor, which is reported to be the same sensor as that of the Z 6––with one slight modification.

Similar to its predecessor, the D780 features a tilting screen. The 3.2-inch, 2.36m-dot LCD is also a touch screen that functions well for intuitive control over playback and menu navigation, as well as touch control over autofocus and shutter functions. It would be nice if the screen had an articulating arm; as it is, the tilt screen is of limited usefulness in the vertical orientation, but is great for working from high and especially low angles in the horizontal orientation.

The D780 sports dual SD memory card slots like the D750, rather than the single XQD slot of the Z-system cameras. The former supports both overflow recording and simultaneous recording on both cards for peace of mind. It also accommodates the UHS-II standard, enabling fast write speeds for video and multi-shot sequences.

When used with the D780, the EN-EL15b lithium-ion battery is rated for an impressive 2,260 shots per charge without live view enabled, or 360 with live view. The battery can be charged via USB-C. For comparison, I recently got 554 25-second exposures out of a relatively new battery in the D750 (with live view and playback disabled) when shooting the Lyrid meteor shower.

The camera has variable aspect ratios of 1x1, 3x2 and 16x9, an in-camera monochrome mode, meter capabilities down to -3 EV, and shutter speeds down to 900 seconds (or 15 minutes).

Long Exposure

Yes, you read that right. Hallelujah! We finally have a Nikon DSLR with onboard shutter speeds that go beyond 30 seconds. There is a menu setting to enable extended shutter speeds, but once you turn it on, it’s a sticky setting, unlike Canon’s awkward Bulb Timer mode on the 5D Mark IV that requires going to the menu every time you use it.

We night photographers would have preferred even longer shutter speeds, but the D780 does have the Time mode, which, unlike the D750, does not automatically shut off at 1,694 seconds. Camera manufacturers have long been reticent to have programmed long-exposure times out of fear of long-exposure noise.

The primary implication of the extended shutter speeds is the elimination of the need for an external intervalometer in many situations. The extended shutter speeds combined with the internal intervalometer (or the easier-to-use but more limited self timer) allow for shooting stack sequences up to 2 hours, 15 minutes with the self-timer and virtually any length with the internal intervalometer.

I’ve been using the Time setting on the D750 and D850 and timing exposures either with my phone, or more often just by feel, because I never liked dealing with the fiddly and fragile intervalometers. For many night photographers, the onboard long shutter speed is a game-changing feature, even if it is only a convenience and has no effect on image quality.

Echo Canyon Road, Death Valley National Park. An example of the range of tones in a black and white image shot under moonlight. Conversion in Lightroom, Adobe Monochrome profile, with no additional software. Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1 minute, f/5.6, ISO 400.

Autofocus

One of the things that has improved the most over the D750 is autofocus performance in both the viewfinder with a 51-point autofocus system, and also a hybrid system for live-view focusing. The hybrid system is adopted from the Z-series cameras, and switches between phase-detection and contrast-detection autofocus based on conditions. It covers approximately 90 percent of the frame with 273 focus points, making it easy for the camera to focus on subjects at the edges.

There is a low-light autofocus mode that extends autofocus capabilities down to -6 EV. The viewfinder autofocus system is accurate down to -3 EV. Under ideal conditions, this should allow for autofocus with live view in light as low as a quarter moon, and with the viewfinder under the light of a full moon. But autofocus on the Milky Way core is a long ways off still, as it is about -10 or -11 EV.

Velociraptor, Borrego Springs, California. Nikon D780 with a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 lens at 22mm. 1 minute, f/5.6, ISO 500. A collaborative light-painted image made during a recent workshop under cloudy moonlit skies.

Live View

The live view interface is derived from the Z 6. It’s mostly familiar for Nikon DSLR shooters, but requires a little getting used to. The good news is that live view image quality in low light is much improved, and focusing on stars, or on dark foreground subjects with a flashlight, is much easier than with older Nikons.

I did find that I got the best live view image in low light conditions using the video mode set to the slowest possible shutter speed, just like with the D750. This is a workaround—not an ideal field workflow—as you must remember to turn off the live view before taking the picture, or the RAW file will be cropped to the 16:9 aspect ratio. Still, it is a big and welcome improvement.

780 tilt with photo for social.jpg

Customization

A customizable 12-position menu can be accessed by pushing the i button on the back of the D780 or tapping the i icon in live view. The i menu is an easily accessible place to store settings that you change frequently. The camera allows users to customize different i menus for shooting stills through the optical viewfinder, for shooting stills in live view and for shooting video.

The D780 offers two customizable buttons on the front of the camera that can be set to any one of a long list of functions; you can view them all here. Additionally, the AF-On and AE-L/AF-L buttons can be customized, and the bracket button on the front of the camera can also be customized to shoot multi-exposure images or HDRs.

Build Quality

Comfortable in the hand and familiar to any Nikon user, the D780 offers a solidly built camera with full weather sealing in a relatively lightweight body. On first glance, it looks very much like the D750, but is just a little smaller with a few button changes. For a full-frame DSLR as capable as the D780, it’s compact and ergonomic. It’s basically a D750/Z 6 hybrid.

A Few Random Features

The live view activation button has been moved up to the right of the viewfinder, and the video record button is on the top deck, next to the newly located ISO button.

These changes require some adaptation, but the new position of the ISO button will be familiar to users of the newer Nikon cameras. It is a better and more logical position than on the D750, which has it second from the bottom on the button stack to the left of the rear LCD. Testing the D780, I inadvertently activated video recording several times while reaching for the ISO, but my fingers learned relatively quickly which button was which.

780 top.jpg

I know that I said I wouldn’t talk about video in this review, but quickly: Video shooting is much improved, and the D780 can shoot UHD 4K at up to 30 frames per second, or HD at up to 120 frames per second.

Moreover, there is now the option to create time-lapses from images shot with the Interval Timer Shooting mode instead of the Time-Lapse Movie option of the D850, which means you can keep the RAW files and still produce an in-camera time-lapse on the go. The D780 also has the same focus stacking mode as the D850.

The D780 is compatible with most Nikon F-mount lenses, including AI-S and all Nikon AF models.

On the negative side, there is no option for a battery grip, and the pop-up flash of the D750 is absent from its descendant. I suspect some people will miss these features, but they are relatively minor issues for a night photographer. Also, the intervalometer connects with the same fussy DC2 port. It’s difficult to identify the correct orientation of the plug, especially in the dark. Fortunately, it’s necessary only for timed exposures longer than 15 minutes.

Wish List

Although the D780 has most of the features that I would want on my dream camera, there are a few things would make it the hands-down ideal for a night photographer:

  • Extended shutter speeds down another couple of stops to 1 hour. I’m grateful for the extension to 15 minutes, but why stop there?

  • Image quality at ISO 25,600 comparable to what we get at 6400 on the D750/Z 6/D780. Those extra 2 stops would provide the much-needed wiggle room that astro-landscape photographers often need with our exposure variables. NPF Rule, anyone?

  • An easier way to access the brightest possible live view image in low-light situations. The live view interface of the D780 is the same as the Z 6 and much cleaner and easier to use than that of the D750. However, a workaround is still required to get the best possible live view image at night.

  • The flip lever to close the optical viewfinder (which prevents light from entering the back of the camera during long exposures) that’s found on the D810, D850 and D4-D6.

  • The D500, D850 and D5-D6 have backlit buttons for ease of use in the dark. Their absence on the D780 is a distinction from the top-of-the-line models that cost considerably more.

Fern and Waterfall, Portland, Oregon. A daylight image showing the dynamic range and color depth of the D780 sensor. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 24-120mm f/4G lens at 120 mm. 1/50, f/8, ISO 100.

A couple of features from other manufacturers that would be amazing to see developed for Nikon:

  • Many Canon cameras have the ability to hold images in the buffer and process Long Exposure Noise Reduction while you keep shooting new images. They also have an auto-LENR feature that applies noise reduction as needed and that doesn’t necessarily double the exposure length. I’d like both these features in a Nikon body. Imagine being able to use LENR for all your shots without having to wait for it!

  • The Astrotracer feature of the Pentax K1 for getting around the longest usable shutter speed limitation in astro-landscape photography is based on in-camera image stabilization. It’s not likely ever to appear on a Nikon camera, but it sure would be sweet to have.

Image Quality

What surprised me when I began comparing images from the D750, Z 6 and D780 was not how good the D780’s image quality is, but how well the 6-year-old D750’s images stood up to the newer cameras. That’s not to say that the D780 is in any way a disappointment––to the contrary, the overall image quality is among the best of any 24-megapixel camera that I’ve used.

In the limited testing I was able to do, any difference in image quality at ISO 6400 and 12,800 was negligible. There may be slightly less noise in the shadows on the newer cameras up to ISO 12,800. It was only at ISO 25,600 where the D780 and Z 6 were noticeably better. At ISO 25,600 on the D750, colors begin to bleed outside of detail boundaries and the image really starts to fall apart.

This begins to happen in a similar way at ISO 51,200 with the D780 and Z 6. The newer cameras essentially add one stop of usable ISO, but most photographers will probably still not want to shoot higher than 6400 or possibly 12,800 for nighttime landscape imaging. (There are pixel-peeping opportunities at the end of this post.)

Inyo Mine, Death Valley National Park. Examples of the D780’s high ISO capabilities. The RAW files can be downloaded for evaluation purposes (see the link at the end of this post). Nikon D780 with a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 at 20mm. From left to right: 6 seconds, f/4, ISO 12,800; 3 seconds, f/4, ISO 25,600; 1.6 seconds, f/4, ISO 51,200.

I did get to shoot in a contrasty mixed-light urban environment, and was impressed with the ability to pull detail out of deep shadows while preserving highlights, but wasn’t able to do side-by-side comparison testing of different cameras in that environment. DXO Mark rates the sensor on the Z 6 (and the D780 by extrapolation) at 14.3 stops at base ISO compared to 14.5 stops for the D750. This minor difference of one-third of a stop probably cannot be appreciated in real-world situations as opposed to in the testing lab. More importantly, the new sensor tests at a full stop more (9.3) dynamic range at ISO 6400, which is the standard setting for astro-landscape photography.

The Kenworth of my Dreams, Portland, Oregon. The D780 is remarkably well-suited to urban night photography. Highlight and shadow detail is preserved and color rendering is gorgeous. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 30 seconds, f/11, ISO 100.

Despite having the D780 for a while, I didn’t have the chance to photograph with it under starlight conditions––mostly due to lunar phase timing while I had it in California and an extended period of overcast skies here in Vermont. I have used the Z 6 for astro-landscape photography, and it produces some of the best Milky Way images I’ve ever seen. Assuming that the D780 has the same sensor as the Z 6, albeit with a few tweaks in how the images are processed, then both are class-leading for astro-landscape imaging.

ISO Invariance

Like the D750 and D850, the D780 sensor is ISO-invariant, meaning that you can underexpose by several stops to preserve highlights and bring up the shadows in post-processing without majorly compromising overall image quality. This is likely due to the dual-gain sensor that has been featured in many of the best-performing cameras released in the last few years.

The pixels in dual-gain sensors have two readout modes, the first at native and modestly increased ISOs for maximum dynamic range, and another for lower noise at higher ISOs at the expense of dynamic range. The D850 high-ISO readout mode kicks in at ISO 1600. I have not been able to determine when it switches over in the Z 6 and D780, but it’s probably similar to the D850.

The Orange Chair, Portland, Oregon. An example illustrating the ISO invariance of the D780 sensor. Intentional underexposure by 3 stops preserves the highlight detail in the windows. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 20 seconds, f/11, ISO …

The Orange Chair, Portland, Oregon. An example illustrating the ISO invariance of the D780 sensor. Intentional underexposure by 3 stops preserves the highlight detail in the windows. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 20 seconds, f/11, ISO 100.

Lightroom basic settings for “The Orange Chair” photograph. Deep shadow detail recovered with only minimal added noise in post-processing. The RAW file adjustments on the image show an increase of +3.00 on the Exposure slider.

A Final Note on Image Quality

At the beginning of this article I mentioned a slight image quality improvement over the Z 6, and this has to do with the on-sensor phase-detection autofocus system. This is an advantageous feature, because it allows for phase-detection autofocus during live view. However, some of the pixel sites on the sensor are utilized for autofocus, which can cause a subtle banding effect in very deep shadows—especially when the exposure is raised in post-processing.

The D750 does not have this on-sensor system, and thus does not have this issue. The D780 does feature on-sensor phase-detection autofocus (the first Nikon DSLR to do so), but the banding issue has been resolved.

Conclusion

With so many great cameras to choose from, night photographers are not lacking for options. These days the debate is often about whether or not to make the switch from DSLR to mirrorless.

The D780 offers the best of both worlds in the form of a hybrid of the D750 and Z 6. The D780 has the phase-detection autofocus, the 4K video and the live view features of the Z 6 in a solid, compact DSLR body with a backside illuminated dual-gain sensor with great image quality at native, high and extreme ISOs. And don’t forget about the extended shutter speeds down to 15 minutes that virtually eliminate the need for an external intervalometer.

It’s not the perfect camera for night photography––we’re still waiting for that one, and likely always will be—but the D780 comes very close.

Many photographers have made the switch to mirrorless for the reduction in size and weight, and others have resisted the change because they are not ready to sacrifice their FX lenses or don’t want to deal with an adapter to use them. Personally, I prefer the user experience of the DSLR, and don’t feel that the modest decrease in size and weight of switching to mirrorless is worth the trade-offs. When I reviewed the D850 2 years ago, I concluded that upgrading from a D750 to D850 wasn’t worth it for me, as the primary benefit was increased resolution that I didn’t need and backlit buttons that were convenient but not worth the added cost or extra weight in my bag.

Now with the introduction of the D780, it’s once again time to consider an upgrade. I’m buying one.


which night photographers is the D780 for?

D750 owners

As one of Nikon’s most successful cameras ever, the D750 is hard to beat, though it is getting a little long in the tooth, having been released in 2014. With the D780, there’s a modest gain in image quality, especially at higher ISOs. However, most of the improvements have more to do with an updated user experience than better image quality. If you love your D750, but it has seen better days, or you are simply ready for an upgrade, you will not be disappointed with the D780.

Older Nikon full-frame camera owners

If you’ve been holding on to that D600, D610, D800 or even the D810, it’s time to upgrade. For D810 owners who need the higher resolution for huge prints, the D850 is probably a better choice for you.

Canon Shooters

Specifically, those who are dissatisfied with high ISO image quality, or struggle to use live view for focusing in the dark with their 5D Mark IV. Canon’s live view used to be one reason for a night photographer to choose Canon over Nikon. That changed with the inability to get a bright enough image for live view focusing with the 5D Mark IV and the greatly improved low-light live view performance in the Nikon Z 6, Z 7 and D780. The D780 has superior high ISO image quality for astro-landscape photography and wider dynamic range for urban night photography than any Canon camera.

APS-C Camera Owners

Yes, you. It’s time. It’s true that recent crop-sensor cameras do a much better job at high ISO than the older ones, but they cannot compare to the image quality of a modern full-frame sensor. For those on a budget, the D750 is still an outstanding value at $1,500. The $1,800 Z 6 is also a great option—it just depends on your preference for mirrorless or a DSLR. If you can afford it, get the D780. It’s worth the extra cost.

Z 6 Converts Who Love Their New Camera, but Miss Their DSLR

I know of at least one person who bought a Z 6 but switched to a D780 for this very reason. If I had bought a Z 6, I’d probably be in this category too.


Pixel Study: High ISOs

ISO 6400

ISO 12,800

ISO 25,600

Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1/4, f/5, ISO 51,200.

I shot the same image on the same night with the same lens and settings to test image quality at high ISOs between the D750, D780 and Z 6. The images were made under clear, moonlit skies, and the subject was illuminated with a Luxli Viola on a light stand. The lighting was unchanged during the testing, except that the moon rose higher into the sky, which altered the shadows.

I tested each camera at ISO 6400, ISO 12,800 and ISO 25,600. There is very little difference between the three cameras at ISO 6400 and ISO 12,800, but the D750 image starts to deteriorate at ISO 25,600.

I also tested the D780 at ISO 51,200. At this extreme ISO, the image from the D780 deteriorates in the same way as the D750 does at ISO 25,600. The colors start to bleed outside of contrast edges. Color noise is still easily managed by Lightroom’s default correction, and there is no sign of background pattern noise. Luminance noise is significant.


Download Test Images

So you can make your own evaluations, we are providing a selection of images made during the testing I did for this article at npan.co/D780testimages. They are mostly DNG files with embedded metadata. Feel free to download the files and manipulate them for evaluative purposes.

Warning: It might take awhile to download these, and we recommend not doing so with a mobile device using a cellular data connection. The files total nearly half a gigabyte.

(All images are © 2020 Lance Keimig, and may not be printed or republished without express written consent of the author.)


Your Thoughts

Have you had a chance to shoot with the Nikon D780 yet? We’d love to hear your impressions and see your night images! Please leave your thoughts and photos in the comments below, or on our Facebook page.

Lance Keimig is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He has been photographing at night for 30 years, and is the author of Night Photography and Light Painting: Finding Your Way in the Dark (Focal Press, 2015). Learn more about his images and workshops at www.thenightskye.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT

Great Balls of Fire, Part 3: How to Process a Meteor Shower Radiant

Welcome to Part 3 of our journey through the how-to of photographing meteor showers:

  1. Using PhotoPills to Scout Meteor Showers,” by Chris Nicholson

  2. How to Photograph a Meteor Shower,” by Matt Hill

  3. How to Process a Meteor Shower Radiant,” by Matt Hill

All of this, plus a guide to gear and a guide to shoot locations, is contained in our brand new PDF e-guide, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers. To download the whole e-guide, click here:


So … You’re creating a meteor shower photograph. You’ve scouted in PhotoPills. You’ve shot the shower. Now you have hundreds of images. How do we make that cool composite where all the meteors appear to come from a particular origin in the sky?

Find Your Background

Start by editing one image. It should be the best image. This will be the “base” sky that all the meteors get stacked onto later.

Identify the frame that has the most aesthetically pleasing sky. In my example from Great Sand Dunes National Park, the Milky Way is arcing through the composition. Since there were clouds in all the images, I chose the one that I believed has the best-looking clouds and with the Milky Way leading to the upper right corner of the frame (Figure 1). I marked this image in Lightroom with a Pick flag and a Green color label to make it easy to find later.

Figure 1. I like these clouds the best.

Perform your edits to taste. I made my edits to accentuate the galaxy gliding across the sky. But then consider backing those off those edits a bit to de-accentuate the sky. In other words, make the sky darker than you normally would, because you will be masking in meteors, and they need to “pop.”

Sync your Develop settings across all the dark-sky images in your meteor series (Figure 2). If you shot into moonrise or sunrise, process those separately for the foreground (ignoring the sky, which you will eventually mask out).

Figure 2.

Don’t forget to spot/clone out any planes or satellites from your main image (but don’t worry about any of the other images—that would be a waste of time).

Identifying Sky Objects

Here’s a cheat sheet on how to identify the four primary “streak” objects you’ll find in your night sky images. If you want to dive even deeper into this, see my blog post “How to tell the Difference Between Planes, Satellites and Meteors.”

Plane trails are straight or curved (or both), are usually accompanied by dots (from the wingtip lights) at regular intervals, and they traverse many frames.

Iridium satellite flares usually taper in/out like a meteor, but traverse more than one frame because they move slower than a meteor. Also, they may not have any notable color. These are becoming considerably less frequent.

A satellite or the International Space Station creates a straight, very thin line that traverses many frames. No color/tint.

A meteor appears in only one frame (unless you’re unlucky for it to happen during an interval between frames, which would create a gap in its trail). It can be many different colors or gradients—yellow, red, green, blue. Also will vary greatly in size and intensity.

Find Your Meteors

You could export all the images as layers in Photoshop, but imagine how much that would choke your computer. I have over 300 images from that shoot. It’s easier to export and work with only the ones with meteors. So first spend some time in Lightroom to identify every image that has an actual meteor in it. Some tips:

  • Zoom in and around each frame.

  • Toggle back and forth between pairs of images while looking for differences. You will eventually train your eyes to see the meteors.

  • Make a few passes through the whole series. Do your first pass with the zoom at “to fit screen” to find the dramatic, obvious meteors. Then do a few more subsequent passes at the “fill” zoom setting on different areas of the sky.

Finding all those meteors is time-consuming—possibly the most time-consuming part of this post-processing project. And it’s taxing on your eyes. But persevere! The end is in sight.

As I found mine, I used a Yellow color label (number 7 on the keyboard, Figure 3) to mark each one. I found only 23 frames with meteors out of 325 images. Yes—only 7 percent of my frames captured meteors. And I was running an exposure sequence for over two hours. Lesson: Maximize your chances; keep that sequence going as long as you can.

Figure 3. My meteor images, yellow-coded.

Also note that each meteor shower has a different potential yield for meteors per hour. (This is part of the info that PhotoPills provides.) This may vary by location, and will certainly vary by the amount of moonlight in the sky. And even if you’re supposed to be witnessing massive activity, your camera angle may not capture what does end up being visible, despite your best scouting efforts. So stay positive, be smart and work with what you get.

Find Your Foreground

You may have shot several options to use as your foreground—some long exposures at a low ISO, some with light painting, some with moonlight, etc. Look through and pick your favorite. I knew pretty much exactly what I was going to use, because I love my first photo from when the moon rose over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

Let’s prep the foreground image to make it easier to blend with the other frames.

For my sky image, I had deliberately crushed the blacks and shadows with a gradient mask and range mask to make the ground as dark as possible (Figure 4, left). Why? Because it would be easier to use a selection tool later in Photoshop.

For my foreground image, I did the opposite: I pushed up the whites and highlights in a gradient mask and range mask, and I carefully edited the edge so as not to blur the ground/sky transition (Figure 4, right). I also imagined what this should look like and made the ground edit believable—not too bright, not too warm.

Figure 4. Crushed blacks in the foreground (left) and crushed highlights in the sky (right), to make masking them out easier in Photoshop later.

Stacking Your Assets

Use the Attribute filter in Lightroom to find all the Yellow-coded photos (or whatever attribute you chose). To do that, press Command-F (Mac) or Control-F (PC), then select Attribute and click on the Yellow rectangle. Select all the Yellow images in Grid view. Cancel out of the filter by clicking None at the top, then also select the edited versions of your background sky image and your foreground/landscape image.

With all those frames selected, from the Lightroom menu choose Edit > Open as Layers in Photoshop (Figure 5).

Figure 5.

Less Ideal, But Less Computer-Stressing Method

If your computer can handle the task, load the images into Photoshop using the method I described above. It will result in the highest-quality final image, albeit one that’s huge (in this case, a 7 GB PSB file). But if you have an older computer or not a lot of scratch-disk space, you may want to instead export all these frames as JPGs (full-resolution) and then load those files into Photoshop layers using Adobe Bridge. You could also use a Photoshop script to load the JPGs as layers. In Photoshop, choose File > Scripts > Load Files into Stack.

Both of those options will stress the computer less, but because JPGs are lossy, this option will be less flexible to edit later.

Editing Your Layers

Time to plug in that Wacom tablet if you have one! Although, a mouse is fine. I actually found it very easy to use a mouse for this with click/shift-click straight-line painting.

Power user tips:

  • Save every 10 minutes. Just do it. Losing detailed work will make you cry.

  • This will be huge file. Probably bigger than 2 GB, which is the size limit for a PSD. Therefore, you will want to save as a PSB, which is Photoshop’s native large-file format. If you want to be able to see your PSB in Lightroom, make sure you’ve updated your Creative Cloud software since February 2020.

  • Give your eyes a rest. Look out the window now and then.

  • Organize your layers. Make a layer group (essentially a folder for layers) to hold all the meteor images, and name it “Meteors.” Name your sky layer “Sky” and your foreground layer “Ground.” This will eliminate future confusion.

  • Lock your Sky and Ground layers to avoid accidental edits. (Press Control-/, or click the “Lock all” icon above the layers.)

Masking

For each meteor layer, the only image data you want is the meteor itself. Why don’t you want the rest of the sky? Because the stars will be in a different place than in your Sky layer. The sky has only one Vega, etc., and we want to keep it that way. So on each meteor layer, we need to mask out everything except that streak of light.

Here are your steps (for tool locations, see Figure 6):

  1. Turn off your Sky and Ground layers.

  2. Turn off all the meteor layers except the one you are working on.

  3. Click the Add Layer Mask button at the bottom of the Layers panel.

  4. Press D to reset the foreground color to black and the background color to white.

  5. Press B to enable the Brush tool.

  6. Press the bracket keys to change the size of the brush to just a tad wider than the widest part of the meteor streak. [ makes the brush smaller and ] makes the brush bigger.

  7. Click on the thumbnail for the layer mask (not on the thumbnail for the image layer).

  8. Zoom in so the meteor’s path fills your screen.

  9. Now paint out the meteor on the mask. I know it’s counterintuitive. Trust me. (You can use the shift-click trick since meteors burn in a straight line: Click once at one end of the meteor streak, then hold Shift on your keyboard and click once at the end of the streak. )

  10. Use the brush sizing and feathering to finesse your masking.

  11. When you think you have successfully painted out the meteor, invert the layer mask by pressing Command-I (Mac) or Control-I (PC), or from the menu select Image > Adjustments > Invert. I prefer the keyboard shortcut because I use it to flip back and forth to finesse the masking. Try it—most likely you’ll see how convenient it is, too.

  12. Look around the whole layer—there may be more than one meteor in each.

  13. Optional: Make laser-beam noises when you find another meteor. I did. It’s fun.

Figure 6.

Rinse and repeat! Go back to step 2 and do this for every meteor layer you have in the Photoshop document (Figure 7).

Figure 7. All the meteors I found, masked in.

Making the Radiant

It’s magic time!

Alignment

The radiant of the meteor shower is always in motion, as seen from our perspective on earth. Keep this in mind. When you composed, you knew if it was in the frame or not and made good decisions about placement.

In my example, the Perseids were easy since they are so close to Polaris that they do not appear to move much. The Geminids, however, are so far up in the sky you’re not likely to have land and sky in the same composition, even with a 14mm lens. So they will come into your frame from the edge and point to a place not in clear view. And alignment will not be exact.

You’ll see this happen in our next steps:

  1. Select all the layers by pressing Command-Option-A (Mac) or Control-Alt-A (PC), or shift-click the first and last layer.

  2. On any layer with the Eyeball turned on, Control-click (Mac) or right-click (PC) on the eyeball, then select Show/Hide all other layers.

  3. Near the top of the Layers panel, change the Blend Mode to Lighten. You’ll now see the brightest elements of every layer blended together—the stars, the lit foreground and the meteor streaks.

And see? It’s likely that not all your meteors are pointing to the same place.

Note: Any meteor that does not line up with the origin (in this case, the constellation Perseus) is called a “sporadic” (Figure 8). Don’t let those meteors make you think you did anything wrong. They happen. (More on Sporadic meteors here.)

Figure 8. A sporadic.

Because everything in the universe is in motion, to adjust for this perception error, our layers also need to be “put into motion.”  Specifically, we have to rotate each meteor layer, ideally around a visual anchor in the Sky layer. Lucky for me, Polaris is in my scene. Easy peasy. (If Polaris isn’t in your frame, you’ll just need to do a little more work by eye to line up the rotation correctly.)

If the Radiant is in Your Frame

The most surefire way to get all the meteors pointing toward the radiant is if you actually have the radiant in your composition. (See Figure 9 for tool locations.)

  1. Invert the layer mask.

  2. Set the layer to 50 percent opacity.

  3. Enter the Free Transform mode (Edit > Free Transform or Command/Control-T).

  4. Move the center point of the Transform bounding box to just inside Polaris (north)

  5. Rotate the layer. You can do this by clicking and dragging outside the corner of the Transform box. But you can control things easier this way: Locate the Rotate box at the top of the screen, and click into it. Now press the up/down-arrow keys until the star points align.

  6. When aligned, press Enter twice to lock in the rotation angle as well as your Transform adjustment.

  7. Set the layer opacity back to 100 percent.

  8. Invert the layer mask again.

  9. Repeat for each meteor layer.

Figure 9.

If that’s a bit too tedious for you, there are two faster (if less precise) ways to accomplish the same task:

  1. Use Free Transform when zoomed to fit to screen, move the center point roughly into position without zooming all the way in, and rotate each layer using your eyeballs.

  2. Evaluate if you want to do this at all. My first gut reaction without rotating the layers was, “This looks great!” I turned off all the sporadic meteors and called it a day. But then I went back and did things “right” for the sake of perfecting the image for this blog post.

If the Radiant is not in Your Frame

Simply rotate and align each layer until all of the meteors appear to be originating from the same point. Sometimes I put a piece of tape on the wall behind the monitor and eyeball the lines so they all line up with that point. Reminds me of art school and learning about vanishing points.

Dealing with Sporadics

The sporadics might be bothering you. After all, you went through all this work to create an image where scores of meteors are pointing toward the same point in space, just to have a few rogues that point wherever they want (Figure 10).

Figure 10: Sporadic meteors circled in red. Note they do not point toward Perseus. I removed them.

You have a few options:

  • If you only want a “clean” radiant, turn off the layers with the sporadics.

  • If you don’t care, leave them on.

  • Free transform and rotate/move the sporadics so they look as if they came from the radiant.

It’s your choice. But my choice is not to pretend they all were radiant meteors if they were not. I chose to turn those layers off.

Along the same lines, you may choose to move some meteors that cross over or are too near to each other. It’s your fiction … or not. I chose to rotate each layer to honor the origin of the radiant.

Mask in the Ground and Sky

Your base images (which should be the lowest layers in your Photoshop file) for the sky and ground need to be masked over the meteor stack. Here’s how I did mine:

Photoshop is getting very good at auto-detecting with the Quick Selection tool (W). I set Point Sample to a tolerance of 2, and checked Anti-Alias and Contiguous. Then I clicked and dragged on the sky/ground (both of which we crushed in Lightroom earlier to make the unwanted pixels similar, specifically to ease the masking process now).

Figure 11.

When I had the selection I wanted (Figure 11), I added a layer mask and inverted it. Voila! Sky and Ground perfection (Figure 12).

Figure 12. The Sky and Ground layers blended, minus the stacked meteors.

After all this work (and pausing to save many times!), you have a Photoshop document with lots of layers, and it might look something like this:

Figure 13. Final image. Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss Distagon 15mm f/2.8 lens. 17 images at 22 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400, plus a single foreground exposure at 382 seconds, ISO 2000.

Your final steps are to:

  1. Save it once more (Command/Control-S).

  2. Flatten the layers by choosing Layer > Flatten Image from the menu.

  3. From the Menu choose File > Save As and then choose Photoshop from the Format menu to save this file as a PSD. This process should automatically save the file and return it to Lightroom. If the PSD does not appear back in Lightroom, do the following: Navigate to the Library Module. Right-click on the folder containing the meteor images, and choose Synchronize. When prompted, choose to import the new image into Lightroom.

  4. Discard the giant layered PSD/PSB when you are totally comfortable that you are done editing it. I suggest giving it at least a week. (If you have giant hard drives and don’t care about gigabytes, feel free to skip this step.)

Wrapping Up

At this point, do whatever you do to celebrate. It’s a major accomplishment—to plan, to shoot and to edit a meteor shower radiant. Good on ya.

And please—please, please, please—if you go through all of this work, share what you’ve done. We’d love to see it. Post in the comments below or on our Facebook page.

Now be sure to download the e-book, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers, which includes all three blog posts, plus a gear guide and a location guide!

Matt Hill is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. See more about his photography, art, workshops and writing at MattHillArt.com. Follow Matt on Twitter Instagram Facebook.

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Great Balls of Fire, Part 2: How to Photograph a Meteor Shower

Welcome to Part 2 of our three-day journey through the how-to of photographing meteor showers:

  1. Using PhotoPills to Scout Meteor Showers,” by Chris Nicholson

  2. How to Photograph a Meteor Shower,” by Matt Hill

  3. How to Process a Meteor Shower Radiant,” by Matt Hill

All of this, plus a guide to gear and a guide to shoot locations, is contained in our brand new PDF e-guide, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers. To download the whole e-guide, click here:


How to Photograph a Meteor Shower

Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss Distagon 15mm f/2.8 lens. 17 images at 22 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400, plus a single foreground exposure at 382 seconds, ISO 2000.

It’s amazing to capture a meteor. An accomplishment that makes most of us say, “Yeah!” and fist-pump in the air. But you know what’s even better? Lots of meteors. And all of them zooming out of one spot in the sky.

One meteor can often be problematic, compositionally. One looks like just a bright streak going through the frame, brighter than a plane trail, usually not in a pleasing spot along a line of thirds or along a swirl of the golden spiral. But many meteors all emanating from one place in the heavens? Wow!

So get your biggest memory card(s) and format them, because this could be a lot of photos!

Let’s assume:

  • you know where the radiant is, because you used PhotoPills

  • you choose a night that has favorable sky conditions (I love the Wunderground app)

Let’s also assume you have the following:

  • a high ISO-capable DSLR or mirrorless camera

  • freshly charged batteries or an external battery pack such as the TetherTools Case Relay

  • a reliable tripod

  • an intervalometer or a camera with one built in

You are now ready.

The Scenario

Our Great Sand Dunes group shooting the shooting stars.

Location

I am going to use a workshop shoot in Great Sand Dunes National Park to illustrate the process. The park is north of Alamosa, Colorado, which unfortunately is a source of light pollution. But the northern view into the crook of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains is not only ripe with dark skies, but also offers a beautiful visual contrast between the top of the dunes at 8,660 feet and the mountains at 12,000.

Having visited Great Sand Dunes twice before, I had performed a fair amount of both daytime and nighttime scouting. The first time I failed, and the second I fared much better. This would be the third trip, and the shot I had in mind was rather epic.

Meteor Shower

The peak of the Perseid Meteor Shower on the overnight of August 12 to 13, 2017.

Sky Conditions

We had peak darkness from about 9:30 p.m. until just before 11 p.m. when the moon started to rise behind the mountains and brighten the sky.

Challenges

Ascending 600 feet of sand dunes at 8,000 feet of elevation, with gear, to achieve the view of the mountains over the dunes. Plus the patience to wait out the meteors.

A lucky first shot. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss Distagon 15mm f/2.8 lens. 22 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Setting Up

I chose a 15mm lens and a vertical orientation for the camera to keep the composition ratio to one-third landscape/dunes and two-thirds sky.

When deciding on a composition, it’s important to confirm the location of the meteor radiant—the place in the sky where all the meteors appear to originate from. The radiant is always near a constellation (not by magic—only because human imagination has seen and named a lot of constellations, so there’s always one nearby). A meteor shower is named for the constellation near its radiant. The Perseids are named such because the meteors appear to originate from the constellation Perseus.

In 2017 PhotoPills didn’t have the Meteor Showers feature, so we did it the old fashioned way: We used an astronomy app to spot Perseus and to see how it would appear to move during the shoot. We set up our cameras facing the direction of the meteor shower radiant, keeping in mind that it would move through the frame (like the rest of the night sky) over the course of the evening.

In Chris’ post yesterday, he walked through how we would have used PhotoPills to plan this photo. In short, here’s the info I would have loved to have at our fingertips that night three years ago:

From left to right: Path of the meteor radiant, plus moon shadow angles and times. The same, plus the Milky Way. Nearing the end of a usable dark sky. Moonrise—the end of the shoot … or not?

I placed the radiant near the center of my composition. Again, constellations appear to move during the night, which means the radiant center travels through your composition. So definitely plan for that movement. If you are not careful, the radiant may drift out of your frame. Fortunately, the Perseids are located not too far from Polaris. So, from the earthbound point of view, everything was pretty much rotating around a close fixed point, making shooting (and later, post-processing) easier.

I chose to include a generous portion of sky to maximize meteor captures, plus some of the landscape for context. My framing deliberately included some featureless foreground: the utterly dark dunes. We encouraged everyone in the workshop shooting with us to stay behind a line in the sand (so to speak) so as not to get footprints in others’ foregrounds.

The foreground is dark—but we’ll deal with that later.

You may ask, “If the foreground is dark, why are you including so much of it?” Well, it’s awfully hard to see meteors when the moon is in the sky. That causes an opposite problem: dark landscapes. But we still, ideally, want our images to have artful foreground that provides both context and rich details.

How do we do that? We have a few choices:

  1. Set up during the end of the day and shoot some twilight images. Then, do not move your camera. Not a millimeter. When darkness descends, shoot your meteor shower images and blend them with your daylit foreground in post.

  2. Light paint your foreground for the beginning and end frames of your meteor shower sequence. In post, blend your best light painting with your meteor radiant.

  3. Wait for the moon to scoot around and light up the landscape from a right angle. This is what I chose, and I urged the attendees to do this too. It takes patience. But knowing your goal helps.

No matter what, be sure to give your skies some context and plan for your foreground to be composed and lit well.

Setting Up the Rest

OK. Next we do the bread-and-butter night photography stuff:

  1. Focus.

  2. Compose.

  3. Perform a high ISO test.

  4. Check everything at 100 percent on the back of your camera. Carefully. Especially look at your focus. Four times. Not joking.

  5. Make sure your camera is set to capture in RAW.

  6. Choose your color balance.

  7. Lock down everything on your tripod.

  8. Put a fresh battery in your camera, or plug in to an external battery.

  9. Determine a good shutter speed using the NPF Rule. (More on that later.)

  10. Choose an ISO that complements the scene and your camera. For my Nikon Z 6, it’s usually ISO 6400, but I know Gabe really digs pushing that camera to 12,800.

  11. Shoot as wide open as your lens permits without coma.

  12. Connect your intervalometer and set its program as needed. Your interval between images should be 1 second, which is as short as almost any intervalometer can effectively go.

Shooting for Sharp Stars

Why is the shutter speed so important? You want to have exposure times that create star points, not short star smudges. Your sky should be tack-sharp, so I suggest calculating a shutter speed using the NPF Rule.

But when you do, calculate the ideal NPF exposure in PhotoPills using “Default,” but not “Accurate.” For example, these days I often shoot with a Nikon Z 6 and a Laowa 15mm f/2.8 lens. When I run that combination through the NPF calculator, the “Default” shutter speed is 18.62 seconds, while “Accurate” is 9.31 seconds.

A 9.31-second exposure will create amazingly sharp starts, but it is also short enough to increase the chance of cutting off meter tails. 9.31 seconds + 1 second delay in the intervalometer = 10.31-second exposure cycles. That means the shutter will be closed for 9.7 percent of the total exposure time of the final composite image.

An 18.62-second exposure is more likely to capture a meteor in its entirety—its blackout time during intervals will account for only 5.2 percent of the cumulative exposure of the series. I like those odds better.

NPF Rule shutter speeds for the Nikon Z 6 when used with a Laowa 15mm f/2.8 lens, at the “Default” (left) and “Accurate” (right) settings. (Forget about the 500 Rule. It’s two generations old—enough to consider obsolete.)

You might decide that you don’t mind missing a few meteors because you want to make a magnificent mural print for your wall and the pointier stars will look better when blown up. I would agree. But photography is always a game of deciding which variables to adjust to match your goals. My goal was maximum meteor strikes.

Also consider this: You might capture only 10, 20 or 40 meteors in hundreds of photos over a few hours of shooting. My final in this example has only 16 meteors originating from the radiant. Shooting at 9.31 seconds, with more frequent 1-second intervals, may have reduced that count by quite a few.

The Shoot

So now what?

Set your intervalometer (or camera software or app) to start a sequence of images that begins right after twilight ends (or right when the meteor shower starts to pick up). Also, base your start time around when the moon might be rising or setting, if applicable. In my case, in Great Sand Dunes, I wanted to keep shooting until a little after the moon rose at 11:04 p.m.

If you want to run your exposures until dawn, I suggest returning to your camera during twilight to adjust your exposures manually as the sun approaches the horizon, because they will change quickly. But consider this: Why should the foreground look like daytime when meteors are visible only on the darkest of nights?

Go! Let it rip. Don’t move the camera. Don’t walk in front of it. Maybe light paint the first few exposures. But then sit back (maybe on a portable chair) and enjoy the meteor shower with your naked eyes or go for a safe hike in the darkness.

Waiting out the long series of exposures.

Waiting out the long series of exposures.

At Great Sand Dunes, I let the exposures run for just over two hours. Yup. Made 325 RAW files. For a wedding photographer, that’s no big deal, but for a night photographer, that might usually be three or four night’s work.

I put together the 325 images in a time lapse, so you can see (in an accelerated way) how the meteor shower looked in person:

Patience pays off. Moonlight sculpts the dunes for my lit-foreground frame. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss Distagon 15mm f/2.8 lens. 382 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 2000.

Foreground Exposure

My final step was to expose for the moonlit foreground and mix in some light painting.

I wanted the moon to be scraping over the dunes perpendicular to my scene. As soon as the moon was about to do what I wanted to capture, I stopped the intervalometer to cease the meteor series. I quickly shot another high ISO test to determine a good exposure, then dropped down to ISO 2000 and made a 382-second frame for a higher-quality image of the sand.

I didn’t choose to make an even longer, even higher-quality exposure because the moon, and thus the shadows, were moving quickly, which made the dunes look flat. I could have also walked into or around the scene and performed some artful light painting to accent the landscape, but I liked how the moonlight looked, so I packed up the setup and moved on for the night.

Post-Production

Congratulations! You photographed a whole meteor shower! Believe it or not, that was the easy part. Now you have to process it. … Buckle up! Tomorrow we go to the digital darkroom.

Now move on to “How to Process a Meteor Shower Radiant.” And be sure to download the e-book, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers.

Matt Hill is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. See more about his photography, art, workshops and writing at MattHillArt.com. Follow Matt on Twitter Instagram Facebook.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT

Great Balls of Fire, Part 1: Using PhotoPills to Scout Meteor Showers

If you want to photograph meteor showers, 2020 is your year.

Why? Doesn’t each calendar comprise the same meteor showers? Don’t the Quadrantids happen every winter, and Eta Aquariids every spring, and the Delta Aquariids each summer and the Leonids each fall?

Yes, they do. But not every meteor-shower photography opportunity is created equal. The variable is a rather large obstacle in the night sky: the moon. The brighter it is, the fewer meteors we can see, and thus the fewer meteors we can photograph. In short, a new moon usually makes for a better experience when shooting shooting stars.

That brings us back to why 2020 is such a fine year for doing this: Of the nine major meteor showers, three will peak during a new moon, including the busiest shower of them all, the Geminids in December. The same conditions will be available for the Leonids in November, as well as the Lyrids … this week!

(The summer Perseids won’t be too shabby either. They’ll happen under a 44.7 percent moon, but with a few hours before the waning gibbous rising, they should be spectacular nonetheless.)

This is why we’re bringing you our three-part definitive guide to photographing meteor showers:

  1. Using PhotoPills to Scout Meteor Showers,” by Chris Nicholson

  2. How to Photograph a Meteor Shower,” by Matt Hill

  3. How to Process a Meteor Shower Radiant,” by Matt Hill

Moreover, all of this, plus a guide to gear and a guide to shoot locations, is contained in our brand new PDF e-guide, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers. To download the whole e-guide, click here:


Using PhotoPills to Scout Meteor Showers

Can you plan meteor shower photography without PhotoPills? Sure! But why would you, when the app makes planning a lot more convenient and a lot more precise?

The Meteor Showers feature is one of the newest in PhotoPills. It does an excellent job of collating the myriad and complex data points required to plan and execute a good meteor shower shoot:

  • dates of meteor showers and their peaks

  • the location of the shower radiant (where the meteors appear to originate in the sky)

  • the number of meteors per hour

  • the moon phase

Moreover, PhotoPills gives you all this information accurate to any position on earth, for any meteor shower until 2032. (If you’re planning shoots further than that, kudos for your enthusiasm and confidence.)

To walk through the different settings and how to use them to plan a meteor shower shoot, we’re going to pretend to go back in time.

On August 12, 2017, my fellow NPAN instructor Matt Hill, along with a group of our workshop attendees, hiked into Great Sand Dunes National Park with the goal of creating a night-long image stack of the Perseids streaking over the landscape. The photograph he created (Figure 1) was so on-point that it’s become our go-to example of how to shoot meteors. (In fact, it’s the image he’ll use to demonstrate how to photograph and process a meteor shower image in the next two blog posts in this series.)

PhotoPills released their Meteor Showers feature just last fall. But we can look back in time (the app’s pertinent data is retroactive to 2010) to see how he would have used PhotoPills to plan this shot.

Figure 1: Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss Distagon 15mm f/2.8 lens. 17 images at 22 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400, plus a single foreground exposure at 382 seconds, ISO 2000 for the landscape after moonrise. © 2017 Matt Hill.

Working in PhotoPills

First things always come first: Open the app, then tap Meteor Showers (Figure 2). The pill opens and presents you with the data for any meteor shower activity today. That’s fine if you’re shooting tonight, but if you’re scouting for a shoot in the future, you can navigate to any shower of any year over a two-decade period by tapping on Calendar (Figure 3).

You can select the year by tapping at the top—in this case, to go back in time, I tap 2019 to move the timeline to the right, then I tap 2018 to move it again, and finally I tap 2017.

Figure 2.

Figure 3.

The view that comes up lists the nine major meteor showers along with lots of condensed information:

  • dates the showers are active

  • dates they peak

  • diagram of the constellation each shower appears to radiate from

  • the “quality” of each shower for your shoot location (based on moonlight, position of the radiant, etc.)

  • number of meteors you can expect to see per hour

  • illumination percentage of the moon

For example, in Figure 4, for the 2017 Perseids we can see the following: It radiated from Perseus, had a below-average quality, lasted from July 17 to August 24, peaked on August 12 (the night Matt was shooting—yay, Matt!), had an expected density of 33.8 meteors per hour, and was happening under a 70.2 percent moon.

Figure 4.

The next step is to dive deeper into the data by tapping “Perseids” (Figure 5). There you can see all the info above, plus some more, such as the fact that the meteors originated from the Swift-Tuttle comet.

Figure 5.

When you tap the arrow next to “Peak at your location,” you’ll open the Info screen, where you’ll see a host of other information that will affect how and when you choose to shoot, such as the times for sunset, moonset, and visibility and orientation of the galactic core.

Perhaps upon seeing this information you’re curious if the nights before or after would be better for the shoot. At the top (Figure 6), tapping < and > brings you backward and forward one day at a time, and all the pertinent data changes. To change by minutes or hours, swipe inside the box between those arrows.

Figure 6.

However, there’s one problem with all the info you’ve seen in these screen shots so far. It’s not for Great Sand Dunes National Park. Rather, it’s information for shooting in Charlotte, North Carolina, where I’m sitting as I write this blog post. That doesn’t do me much good for planning a shot 2,200 miles away in southern Colorado.

Fortunately, there’s a way to change that:

  1. Tap Settings at the top right, then tap on the GPS coordinates (which, by default, should indicate your precise spot on the globe at the moment you tap).

  2. From there you can enter the coordinates of your shoot location (if you know them), or enter the name or address of the location in the search field at the top. (If you can’t enter text, disable the Autoupdate switch in that dialog.)

  3. Select the correct option displayed below the search box (Figure 7).

  4. Tap Done (on an iOS device) or the back-arrow (on an Android).

Figure 7.

Now all the data will reflect the chosen shoot location rather than your current position.

So, time-traveling with Matt we can now see (Figure 8) that:

  • The sun will set at 7:58 p.m.

  • The moon will rise at 11:03 p.m.

  • The galactic core will be visible from 9:37 p.m. to 1:42 a.m..

  • The shower will peak at 11:04 p.m. with 36.9 meteors per hour.

  • At that time, he can expect to actually see 7.5 of those meteors per hour.

  • The shower will be radiating from an azimuth of 31.6 degrees and an elevation of 21.7 degrees.

  • Minor remainders from other meteor showers (e.g., the Delta Aquarids, which are past peak) might show up.

Figure 8.

Also on the Info screen is a graph with a horizontal line and two curves that dip above and below (Figure 9). The horizontal line indicates the horizon, the blue curve indicates the moon and the gray curve indicates the meteor shower radiant. The curves indicate how far above or below the horizon the moon and radiant will be at any given time (indicated at the bottom of the graph). The background of the graph is gray, with darker gray indicating twilight and black indicating dark hours. For ideal shooting conditions, look for a time during darkness when the moon is below the horizon and the radiant above.

Figure 9.

At the bottom of the graph is a gray bar chart that combines the data about light conditions (moon and sun visibility) with the expected rate of meteors (Figure 10). This identifies the times when you’re most likely to see the most shooting stars. It’s essentially a curve indicating how good the show will be at different times of night—the higher the gray, the better. In Matt’s case, we can see that the best window to photograph the most meteors in the darkest conditions was between 9:30 and 11 p.m.

Figure 10.

Swiping the graph will change the time of day, and in the section below you can see how the radiant’s azimuth and elevation change, as well as the expected rate of visible meteors.

Putting the Data to Use

All of that data sounds wonderful, right? Well … you can be forgiven if you’re thinking, “Yeah, but that’s a lot of numbers to sort through.” You’re right. And, in fact, there are even more numbers and technical names for them that I didn’t even mention.

So why is PhotoPills so great for planning a meteor shower shoot? Because it will instantly turn all those numbers into intuitive visual aids, either right on the scene in front of you, for scouting in the field, or right on a map, for scouting at home.

Scouting in the Field

For pretty much every PhotoPills feature I employ, the most powerful tool within that feature is Augmented Reality (AR), which uses your device’s camera to project a map of celestial events right onto the scene in front of you. This allows you to stand in the spot you want to shoot at night and see exactly, for example, where the moon will rise on the horizon, where the Milky Way will tilt across the landscape, and yes, where stars will shoot out of the sky.

During the end of the day, when Matt could still see where he was walking and setting up the camera, he would have used PhotoPills to see exactly where the radiant of Perseids would be at the time he wanted to shoot (Figure 11).

Using that visual information on your device’s display is invaluable for deciding where to set up your tripod, where to point your camera, what lens to use, and how to compose your photograph. In the figure, you can see that the Perseids radiant would rise above the horizon at about 9:30 p.m. and track in an arc above the distant mountains. You can also see that the radiant is aligning nicely with the Milky Way—so, bonus!

Figure 11.

Doing this is easy. From the Meteor Showers Info screen, tap AR at the bottom (Figure 12). This will engage your device’s camera. PhotoPills uses the device’s location and compass information to know where you’re pointing, and will lay the sky map right on top of what you’re looking at. In this case, part of what it shows you will be the meteor shower.

Figure 12.

When you open the AR view, it will default to the current date and time. To see what will happen later, just drag your finger on the screen. You’ll see the sky map move across the scene as you go forward and back by minutes and hours. If you want to go forward a full day, just tap the right of the screen; to go back a day, tap on the left.

As you turn and move your device around the scene, watch the display. Look for the heavy line that indicates the path of the radiant through the sky, with points along the line indicating the time the radiant will appear in different places. Also look for the icon with the meteor shower’s name. This icon will tell you precisely where the radiant will be at the time indicated at the top left of the AR screen.

Back in 2017, all Matt would have needed to do was find the Perseids on the sky map, drag the icon to where he wanted to see the radiant in his composition, note what time it would be there (a little before 11 p.m., in Figure 11) and how it would move through the scene, then set up and shoot.

Scouting from Home

Planning a shot when you’re on location looks easy enough, right? But what if you want to plan ahead of time, when you’re still at home day-dreaming about night-shooting a meteor shower?

That’s when you want to work in the PhotoPills map—or in, as they call it, the Planner pill.

To open this feature, start at the main screen and tap on the very first option, which is labeled Planner (Figure 13).

Figure 13.

Locate and tap on the Settings button (Figure 14). Here you can enable and disable different layers of information, including for the sun, twilight, Milky Way and so on. For this example, I’ve turned off everything except the Moon and Meteor Shower layers. To return to the map, tap Done (iOS) or the back-arrow (Android).

Figure 14.

To make your map show your desired shoot location, tap Load at the bottom, then enter your spot in the text box (in this case, Great Sand Dunes, Figure 15). Tap on the location name in the search results, and PhotoPills will bring you there on the map. Now you can pinch, zoom, drag and swipe to get to the exact spots you’d like to scout. Press and hold where you’d like to stand for your photo, and PhotoPills will drop a red pin. That pin will then become the center point for all your moon and meteor data.

Figure 15.

In Figure 16, you can see all that information in graphic form. The teal and purple lines show where the moon will rise and set, respectively. The straight gray line shows the meteor shower’s radiant position at the chosen time. The gray, curved, dotted line shows how the radiant will move throughout the night in relative position to the ground.

Figure 16.

In order to save that work for future reference (including once you finally get into the field to shoot):

  1. Tap Save at the bottom.

  2. Tap Plan.

  3. Tap New Plan.

  4. Type a name for your plan.

  5. Tap Enter.

Now you can call up that plan by name whenever you’d like to reference it—such as when you find a time machine to return to good ol’ 2017.

Executing the Shoot

That’s how we can use PhotoPills to plan a meteor shower shoot. Tomorrow, Matt will discuss how he executed the rest! And then afterward, he’ll show how he process it. Stay tuned. …

Now move on to “Part 2: How to Photograph a Meteor Shower.” And be sure to download the e-book, Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT

Living Room Long Exposures: Seizing the Night at Home

A few weeks ago I returned from our Lofoten workshop to a totally different world.

Upon arriving back in NYC, I passed the “temperature test” but was asked to go into 14 days of self-quarantine. While two weeks indoors might cause us to go stir-crazy, I always try to look on the positive side of things. So I decided to use my time to count my hats and to work on a ton of other home-based projects.

By nature, I like to live creatively. I need to take pictures, preferably ones that bend time, and I was getting antsy with this much time on my hands. What could I create in an 800-square-foot apartment? Let me preface my answer by mentioning the following limitations:

  • My view out the window is of South Brooklyn.

  • I have no official studio space.

  • I live with my wife Nancy and Theo the Cat.

I thought of what great artists have done indoors. There was Sugimoto’s brilliantly inspiring Theater series for which he photographed old-school movie houses using one long exposure for the duration of the film (Figure 1). And dreams came alive in Steve Harper’s beautiful time-filled 4.5-hour self-portrait while sleeping (Figure 2).

Figure 1. “Radio City Music Hall, New York, 1978.” Hiroshi Sugimoto.

Figure 2. “Self Asleep.” Steve Harper, 1984.

Sufficiently motivated, I started writing down ideas and a shot list.

My self-quarantine took place mainly in our living room—which is 300 square feet and filled to the brim with “stuff.” Yet, I sat there calmly with the lights out and enjoyed watching the twilight shine through the windows, its cool blue light crawling across our warm-toned walls. I binge-watched some TV and thought about how long an exposure would be required to light the room with a 50-inch TV. And, of course, I wondered what I would look like to a camera while sleeping and dreaming for 4.5 hours.

How Long Can You Go?

That was obviously the first question I wanted to answer.

I slept on the couch for a good portion of my self-quarantined return. This actually provided the best space for me to work on those “sleeping selfie” shots. I treated it just like any other long exposure:

Step 1. I left the lights on to finesse the composition and focus, and then left the camera in manual focus.

Figure 3. Testing the focus and composition. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 8 seconds, f/11, ISO 320.

Step 2. I turned off the lights and did a high ISO test shot at 30 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 6400. This allowed me to check for extraneous light sources spilling into the image.

Figure 4. Note the light coming from another room as well as the light spots on the bed coming from the window curtain not being completely closed. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 30 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 6400.

Step 3. The previous test shot was still very dark, so I increased my ISO by one stop and opened my aperture by two stops for the final test: 30 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 12800.

Figure 5. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 30 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 12800.

Step 4. That looked good, so using the Six-Stop Rule, I knew an equivalent long exposure would be 30 minutes, f/2.8, ISO 200. But 30 minutes wasn’t enough for me. I wanted one hour, plus a little more depth of field. So I took away two stops of light by closing down my aperture to f/5.6. I then extended my shutter speed to 60 minutes and raised my ISO to 400.

Step 5. For the final shot it was also very important to turn on the in-camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR). My apartment runs about 70 degrees F and any exposures over 6 minutes start to show the red, blue and green confetti noise in the image. LENR removes the noise, but also requires the equivalent amount of time to process in-camera. So my 1-hour exposure with LENR actually took 2 hours to complete. Fortunately I was using the Tether Tools Case Relay, which lets you connect to any USB power pack. I used the 10,000-mAh Rock Solid, which lasted another 6 hours!

Figure 6. The final shot. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1 hour, f/5.6, ISO 400.

However, while shooting longer exposures, I made a very unfortunate discovery with both my Nikon D750 and Z 6. The LENR wasn’t effective with shutter speeds over 1 hour at 70 F. Even with LENR turned on, the D750 showed a ton of noise at 3 hours and the Z 6 started to show noise at 2 hours.

Figure 7. Zoomed-in view of the of the D750 3-hour exposure, with long exposure noise (left). (Click to expand the image and see the noise.)

Figure 8. Zoomed-in view of the of the Z 6 2-hour exposure, with long exposure noise. (Click to expand the image and see the noise.)

(Not to be daunted, I know of one type of camera that does not suffer from any type of long exposure noise: film cameras! So I ran another long exposure with film, and can hardly wait to develop it.)

Living Room Light Painting

Another fun technique that is easy to practice in your living room is light painting. Sure, most of us don’t have mountains or sand dunes right outside our window that we can paint, but there are plenty of objects inside that can help us sharpen our lighting skills.

The Door

The first thing I noticed was my door. In my previous sleeping photos, I loved the glow through the door frame and wanted to explore that visual. But shooting only a dark door wouldn’t be enough. So, light painting to the rescue!

One of the first lessons we teach in light painting is to paint the subject from an oblique angle. This sidelighting can bring out wonderful texture in any surfaces, including walls and doors.

I stood on my ottoman and closed my hand over the head of my Coast HP5R flashlight to create a small snoot. This created unique beams that reminded me of light streaming through half-open blinds.

The rest of the room was dark, and my exposure was based on just the light painting. I used the T (Time) mode on the Z 6, pressed the trigger on my Vello Shutterboss II to start the exposure, did my light painting, and pressed the trigger again to close the exposure. I could have used Bulb mode instead, but I generally default to T for something as easy as this.

The fun thing with the door project was creating a slightly different pattern each time (Figures 9 and 10). Which one do you prefer?

Figure 9. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70mm f/4 lens, lit with a Coast HP5R. 25 seconds, f/8, ISO 1600.

Figure 10. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70mm f/4 lens, lit with a Coast HP5R. 37 seconds, f/8, ISO 1600.

The Leica

The next challenge for a light painting subject was my classic camera collection. I used my macro lens, got in tight and decided to use a soft style of light painting. I darkened the room and shined my flashlight though a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. The Halo is a great portable way to take a small light source that typically produces hard shadows and turn it into a big (32 inches, in this case) light source that creates a much softer light.

Product photography usually requires even illumination with multiple lights so you can easily “see the product.” I achieved this effect with one diffused flashlight and a long exposure. During shutter speeds of 10 to 20 seconds, I started my light painting from the side but then moved the light near to straight-on.

Figure 11. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 20 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 320.

Figure 12. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 15 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

You can see different effects of experimenting with how long I held the light at different angles. Figures 11 and 12 were shot in a completely dark room. I noticed that the light was spilling onto my white wall and thus creating a brighter background than I wanted. So for the last shot (Figure 13), I moved back a bit and angled the light source down so there was minimal spill, thus creating a darker background.

Figure 13. Nikon Z 6 with Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 10 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

The Don

Obviously, we at NPAN are big fans of night portraits. This is something that, with a willing partner, you can practice in a darkened room at home. In my case, my partner wasn’t as willing, so I did the next best thing: I practiced with a wooden Don Quixote.

For this shot, I wanted to move away from the product photography style and go back to creating dramatic lighting. I chose my Mini Maglite, which has a warm-toned xenon bulb that emits a low 14 lumens. Direct light allowed me to work close to the figure and create more contrast.

I rolled a thick piece of paper around the head of the Maglite. This makeshift snoot helped me create a tight beam so that I could be very specific with where I placed the light, as I wanted to ensure it wouldn’t spill on the table or background.

Figure 14. Test shot—no light painting, just ambient exposure. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens. 4 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

Figure 15. Final shot—with all the ambient light turned off, the light painting creates the drama. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens, lit with a Mini Maglite. 5 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.]

Multiple Exposures vs. Long Exposures

Multiple exposures have been trending lately. Multiple-moods portraits seem to encapsulate our feelings in these anxious times.

I’m multiple-exposure curious. I used to do it in the darkroom, but now mirrorless cameras make it so easy to do in-camera. You take a picture, the LCD shows the overlay, and then you take another. This allows you to best align your images in-camera.

Call me old school, but I prefer doing it this way: Turn out all the lights and shoot one long exposure, then move about the scene and pop a flash when you’re wherever you want to appear. This freezes yourself in the frame multiple times.

I set about this challenge, and after several tries I started honing in on the proper timing and power of the flash. I directed myself into three different positions and popped a handheld Profoto A1 each time. The overall exposure was 80 seconds and the power level of the flash was 7.5.

One of the tricks to pulling this off was ensuring that the A1 only helped the photo, and didn’t hurt it with its lit digital back. I had to run around while being careful not to shine the digital read-out light toward the camera, which would have caused a light streak in the scene. Needless to say it was a frantic 80 seconds, especially with changing hats for every pop of the flash!

Figure 16. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70 f/4 lens, lit with a Profoto A1. 82 seconds, f/8, ISO 50.

I also tried using the camera’s multiple exposure mode, which did make for a more relaxed experience. I set my camera to Time mode and clicked the shutter open. I walked into the scene, assumed position and popped the flash. Then I walked back to the camera, stopped the exposure, reviewed the image, switched hats and started the second shot.

Multiple exposure mode is often for two shots being combined, but most cameras will let you do more than that. Be careful in how you layer together your composition, so as not to converge your figures or your lighting.

Figure 17. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70 f/4 lens, lit with a Profoto A1. In-camera triple exposure set to “average,” each shot at 30 seconds, f/8, ISO 50.

Comparing the shots, we can see it’s possible to get similar results with each technique. The overall exposure in the first is brighter because more ambient light filtered into the room during the longer exposure. Which do you like better?

Ending on a Fun Note

This last shot was my ode to Sugimoto’s theater series with the updated “stay at home and binge” twist. The only light source in the room is the TV, which was showing an episode of Schitt’s Creek. Theo the Cat jumped into the scene and held still for the 8-second exposure—a true night photographer’s pet!

Figure 18. Theo the Cat. Nikon Z 6 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 8 seconds, f/13, ISO 1250.

Are you looking at your living room a little differently now? Why don’t you give it a try? We challenge you, our community, to experiment with some indoor long exposures. Limit yourself to one room in your house. Turn off the lights and let your creativity guide you in the dark.

Then, share the photos with us! Last week we launched “The Night Crew Image Review,” a free livestream program on our YouTube channel, which will run every Thursday at 8 p.m. ET. We’re giving you a 10-day deadline. Work on those indoor long exposures and submit them to us at npan.co/imagereview by noon ET on April 16. Tune in that night to see what you and others created, and we’ll offer some tips at the same time.

Gabriel Biderman is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He is a Brooklyn-based fine art and travel photographer, and author of Night Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Peachpit, 2014). During the daytime hours you'll often find Gabe at one of many photo events around the world working for B&H Photo’s road marketing team. See his portfolio and workshop lineup at www.ruinism.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT