Nikon D780

Five Questions: Moonrises, Laowas, Acadia National Park and More

For every person who asks a question, a good hundred more probably had the same question and didn’t ask. So we like to share the questions we get and the answers we give.

This installment of our “Five Questions” series features inquiries about moonrises, Laowa lenses, the Nikon D780, night panoramas and Acadia National Park.

If you have any questions you would like to throw our way, please contact us anytime. Questions could be about gear, national parks and other photo locations, post-processing techniques, field etiquette, or anything else related to night photography. #SeizeTheNight!


1: Rad Moon Rising

Supermoon over Death Valley National Park. Nikon D500 with a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 lens at 200mm. 1/200, f/8, ISO 800. © 2016 Lance Keimig.

Q: Last year when driving home I passed a small lake that had a huge red/pink full moon rising over it. I tried to find out when this may happen again. Unfortunately I did not see how to get an easy answer to when there would be another full moon rising while the sun is setting, so I reverted to tedious data lookup. How can I plan this easier? And when will the moon still have a pinkish glow—when it beats the sun in rising, or when the sun beats it in setting? — A.B.

A: The full moon always rises near sunset, never at sunrise. The full moon does, however, set at sunrise. (The opposite, for both cases, is true of the new moon.) Either way is a good way to shoot the moon near the horizon during soft light.

The exact times vary quite a bit—by up to as much as an hour, depending on the exact timing of the full moon. In some months, the best timing may be one day before or after the full moon. The moon rises about 45 to 55 minutes later each day during its 28-day cycle, but the sunset time varies by only a minute or two. 

You can use PhotoPills or a website like TimeandDate.com to find out the date of the full moon each month, and then check the sunset and sunrise times within a couple of days of the full moon.

The “best” time for moon photography depends on the effect you are looking for, and the landscape where you are photographing. If you want a warm glow on the landscape, look for a moonrise that’s just before sunset. But I generally prefer a moonrise about 10 to 15 minutes after sunset, when the exposure balances nicely between the moon and the soft light on the land. By about 20 minutes after sunset, the exposure difference between the moon and the landscape is too great to capture in a single image.

The color in the moon is completely dependent on atmospheric conditions––the amount of dust, moisture or pollution in the air. The more particulates, the more color. When the moon is just rising, you are viewing it through hundreds of miles of atmosphere. When it is high in the sky, you are viewing it through a single layer of atmosphere, which is why it is almost always white. — Lance

2: Learning About Laowa

Q: I have the Nikon Z 6 and am looking for a wide-angle lens that I can use for night photography. I saw this lens on the B&H Photo website: Venus Optics Laowa 15mm f/2 FE Zero-D for Nikon Z. What do you know about this lens/company? Quality? Performance? Any info? — Terry K.

A: Summary: It’s a yes.

Why? Four reasons.

  1. It’s an incredibly small, light, fast and sharp lens.

  2. At f/2.8, the coma almost disappears, and at f/4 it’s totally gone. To see a technical test I did, download and open these files in Photoshop and zoom to 100 percent. The star-field boxes are 100 percent crops. The gray zoom boxes are exaggerated zooms at 800-plus percent to show the actual shapes of stars. (Note: These are totally unedited photos. The chromatic aberrations can be easily removed, but I chose not to remove them for what were just test images.)

  3. The metal lens hood is reversible.

  4. It beat my Zeiss Distagon (gasp!) in regard to coma. Wow. And I have an extra stop of light when I need it. And it’s half the size.

So, yeah, the Laowa is fab.

There is one major downside, however, which may or may not matter to you: It does not have electronic contacts. So you will not have the metadata in Lightroom that identifies the lens or which aperture was used for the photographs. — Matt

3: Switching from Canon to D780

Q: My Canon 6D has been pushed to its limits and I’m seeing too much ISO noise, so I’m looking into changing over to Nikon. Have you used the D780? — J.M.

A: The short answer: I’ll definitely be buying one. The image quality seems similar to or better than the Nikon Z 6, which is noticeably better than the D750 I’ve been using for several years. The D780 image quality at 12,800 is outstanding, and is definitely usable at 25,600. The camera also has extended shutter speeds down to 15 minutes.

They moved a couple of buttons around––which shouldn’t be an issue for you coming over from Canon. Other than that, it feels very comfortable and familiar for a Nikon user. I also like that they stuck with two SD card slots and didn’t go for the expensive XQD, or worse, one XQD and one SD slot.

For the long answer, see our recent blog post “Best of Both Worlds—The Nikon D780 Combines the Advantages of the D750 and Z 6.”

My suggestion is: Yes, jump on it! It may just be the last camera you’ll buy. — Lance

4: Night-Pano Follow-Ups

Bear Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park. Nikon D750 with a Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art lens. Sixteen stitched frames shot at 10 seconds, f/2.2, ISO 6400. © 2018 Matt Hill.

Q: After reading your blog post on how to plan and shoot a panorama, I have a few questions:

  1. I have an Acratech GP-ss ball head, which can be mounted upside down and used as a leveling base. So I presume I wouldn’t need a separate leveling base—or would you recommend having one anyway?

  2. I want to rotate my setup exactly 30 degrees between each frame. How could I do that without turning on my headlamp?

  3. I’ve seen some photographers use a Nodal Ninja Advanced Rotator. It has different settings with click stops to confirm you’ve reached a pre-set degree. I believe it could be of help as I wouldn’t have to engage my red light. Are you familiar with these rotators? — Roger R.

A: I’m so happy to see you’re inspired to get out and shoot some night panos! My answers:

  1. I am a fan of having a separate leveling base (and I have the Acratech). It honestly doesn’t add much to the operating size and weight, and it benefits all my setups (not just panos). Leveling is simply faster with a leveling base than by adjusting tripod legs. That said, I have not attempted using the GP-ss inverted, but that’s a curious and wonderful thing it’s capable of doing!

  2. You may consider getting some glow-in-the-dark model airplane paint and making 30-degree ticks on your pano base, as well as making reference points (two, three or four) on the top part. Come to think of it, I may do that myself!

  3. I know two people I really trust who have used rotators, including Gabe. They require setup and calibration. But having those clicks is very helpful for confidence and maintaining your night vision.

    There are other options for indexing rotators that have detents—be sure to examine the intervals you can choose:

Keep in mind that all this gear is great to have for leveling up control over the process of shooting a pano at night, but it’s not required. The most important thing is the proper planning and technique that we covered in the original post. Have fun with your panos! — Matt

5: Acadia Aspirations

Eagle Lake, Acadia National Park. Nikon D3s with a 28-70mm f/2.8 lens, light-painted with moonlight and a Coast HP7R warmed with a 1/2 CTO gel. 20 seconds, f/8, ISO 3200. © 2017 Chris Nicholson.

Q: My husband and I are planning on going to Acadia. We’ve never been to Maine before. We started looking for places to go and stay mainly for night photography with ocean, rivers or lakes with views in or around the park. The area is huge! Was hoping you could give some suggestions on specific areas to stay and go. — Eileen M.

A: You could drive in pretty much any random direction, and you’ll be fine. 😊

Acadia is actually a pretty small park, relatively. But there’s a lot of diversity there for photography.

Anywhere along the Ocean Road will be great for coastal/ocean scenes, and if you’re up for a 20- to 30-minute walk, then I highly recommend Great Head at sunrise. Good spots more accessible from the car include Boulder Beach, Monument Cove and the cliffs in between; Sand Beach; and anywhere along the road between Sand Beach and where the road goes back into the forest.

For lakes, Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake are my favorites. And again, if you’re up for a hike, then I suggest taking the Jordan Pond loop trail all the way around (know that there is a short section that requires going over rocks). In that same area of the park, I recommend hiking up South Bubble for the views over Jordan Pond and the coast, then to Bubble Rock, then from there up to North Bubble, then along the ridge toward a beautiful granite overlook of Eagle Lake.

From late spring to early autumn, you can shoot the Milky Way over Eagle Lake from the main parking lot at the north end.

Also, if you want a quieter experience, check out the Schoodic Peninsula, which is the only part of the park that’s on the mainland. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Mount Desert Island. It has beautiful coastal scenery along almost the whole loop drive. At low tide you can walk out to Little Moose Island, which is beautiful as well. If there’s a storm while you’re in the area, the point of Schoodic Penninsula is where you want to be the next day to shoot the waves crashing on the rocks, in the last couple of hours of the tide coming in. (Just don’t get too close to the treacherous water.)

For more information, I can recommend two excellent photography guides: Photographing Acadia National Park: The Essential Guide to When, Where, and How and The Photographer’s Guide to Acadia, both written by photographer friends of mine, Colleen Miniuk-Sperry and Mike Hudson, respectively. You could also check out my book, Photographing National Parks, for some more general ideas on Acadia and for tips about scouting your shoot.

As for places to stay: Bar Harbor is the center of activity, and has restaurants, coffee shops, etc. It can also be “bustling” when a cruise ship is anchored. If you’d like a quieter experience, consider Southwest Harbor on the west side of the island (known locally as “the quiet side”).

Finally, it’s good to know that due to the current public health situation, Maine has instituted a temporary 14-day quarantine for visitors from out of state. The order is expected to expire sometime between July 1 and August 31, depending on the outcome of some pending regulatory decisions. You’ll want to confirm the status before traveling. — Chris

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT

Best of Both Worlds—The Nikon D780 Combines the Advantages of the D750 and Z 6

A little over 2 years ago, I did some extensive testing of the Nikon D5, D750, D810 and the then-newly released D850. The comparison was to determine which was the best camera for night photography. I concluded that the answer depended on your needs and budget––I recommended the D750 as a great camera at an extraordinary value, the D850 for those who make large prints on a regular basis, and the D5 for sports and wildlife photographers who also shoot at night and who have a healthy budget.

Then, in September 2019, Gabe wrote a post exclaiming hands-down that “the Nikon Z 6 is the best camera for night photography.” I’ve had a few opportunities to use the Z 6 at night since then, and it’s an awesome camera for sure.

Then I recently had the chance to work with the newly released Nikon D780, courtesy of B&H Photo. It’s widely reported that the Z 6 and D780 share the same sensor, and the comparative images I’ve shot indeed look very similar. But there is one subtle difference that makes the image quality of the D780 ever so slightly better than that of the Z 6, especially for night photography in extreme low light. More on that later.

This rundown of the D780 is not intended to be a general review for everyone considering a new camera, but is rather tailored to the needs of the night photographer. If you are a wedding, wildlife or sports photographer, or someone who shoots a lot of video, then my review may be of limited usefulness to you. In this article, I’ll evaluate the camera based on image quality at high ISOs in extreme low-light situations, for long exposures, and also in mixed artificial low-light situations typically found in urban areas at night. I’ll also be discussing the various features and functions as they relate to night photography in general.

Rattle Dragon meets its match. Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1.3 seconds, f/4, ISO 6400. This image has been processed in Photoshop for effect.

Key Features

The camera features a 24.5-megapixel FX-Format BSI CMOS sensor and EXPEED 6 Processor, which is reported to be the same sensor as that of the Z 6––with one slight modification.

Similar to its predecessor, the D780 features a tilting screen. The 3.2-inch, 2.36m-dot LCD is also a touch screen that functions well for intuitive control over playback and menu navigation, as well as touch control over autofocus and shutter functions. It would be nice if the screen had an articulating arm; as it is, the tilt screen is of limited usefulness in the vertical orientation, but is great for working from high and especially low angles in the horizontal orientation.

The D780 sports dual SD memory card slots like the D750, rather than the single XQD slot of the Z-system cameras. The former supports both overflow recording and simultaneous recording on both cards for peace of mind. It also accommodates the UHS-II standard, enabling fast write speeds for video and multi-shot sequences.

When used with the D780, the EN-EL15b lithium-ion battery is rated for an impressive 2,260 shots per charge without live view enabled, or 360 with live view. The battery can be charged via USB-C. For comparison, I recently got 554 25-second exposures out of a relatively new battery in the D750 (with live view and playback disabled) when shooting the Lyrid meteor shower.

The camera has variable aspect ratios of 1x1, 3x2 and 16x9, an in-camera monochrome mode, meter capabilities down to -3 EV, and shutter speeds down to 900 seconds (or 15 minutes).

Long Exposure

Yes, you read that right. Hallelujah! We finally have a Nikon DSLR with onboard shutter speeds that go beyond 30 seconds. There is a menu setting to enable extended shutter speeds, but once you turn it on, it’s a sticky setting, unlike Canon’s awkward Bulb Timer mode on the 5D Mark IV that requires going to the menu every time you use it.

We night photographers would have preferred even longer shutter speeds, but the D780 does have the Time mode, which, unlike the D750, does not automatically shut off at 1,694 seconds. Camera manufacturers have long been reticent to have programmed long-exposure times out of fear of long-exposure noise.

The primary implication of the extended shutter speeds is the elimination of the need for an external intervalometer in many situations. The extended shutter speeds combined with the internal intervalometer (or the easier-to-use but more limited self timer) allow for shooting stack sequences up to 2 hours, 15 minutes with the self-timer and virtually any length with the internal intervalometer.

I’ve been using the Time setting on the D750 and D850 and timing exposures either with my phone, or more often just by feel, because I never liked dealing with the fiddly and fragile intervalometers. For many night photographers, the onboard long shutter speed is a game-changing feature, even if it is only a convenience and has no effect on image quality.

Echo Canyon Road, Death Valley National Park. An example of the range of tones in a black and white image shot under moonlight. Conversion in Lightroom, Adobe Monochrome profile, with no additional software. Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1 minute, f/5.6, ISO 400.

Autofocus

One of the things that has improved the most over the D750 is autofocus performance in both the viewfinder with a 51-point autofocus system, and also a hybrid system for live-view focusing. The hybrid system is adopted from the Z-series cameras, and switches between phase-detection and contrast-detection autofocus based on conditions. It covers approximately 90 percent of the frame with 273 focus points, making it easy for the camera to focus on subjects at the edges.

There is a low-light autofocus mode that extends autofocus capabilities down to -6 EV. The viewfinder autofocus system is accurate down to -3 EV. Under ideal conditions, this should allow for autofocus with live view in light as low as a quarter moon, and with the viewfinder under the light of a full moon. But autofocus on the Milky Way core is a long ways off still, as it is about -10 or -11 EV.

Velociraptor, Borrego Springs, California. Nikon D780 with a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 lens at 22mm. 1 minute, f/5.6, ISO 500. A collaborative light-painted image made during a recent workshop under cloudy moonlit skies.

Live View

The live view interface is derived from the Z 6. It’s mostly familiar for Nikon DSLR shooters, but requires a little getting used to. The good news is that live view image quality in low light is much improved, and focusing on stars, or on dark foreground subjects with a flashlight, is much easier than with older Nikons.

I did find that I got the best live view image in low light conditions using the video mode set to the slowest possible shutter speed, just like with the D750. This is a workaround—not an ideal field workflow—as you must remember to turn off the live view before taking the picture, or the RAW file will be cropped to the 16:9 aspect ratio. Still, it is a big and welcome improvement.

780 tilt with photo for social.jpg

Customization

A customizable 12-position menu can be accessed by pushing the i button on the back of the D780 or tapping the i icon in live view. The i menu is an easily accessible place to store settings that you change frequently. The camera allows users to customize different i menus for shooting stills through the optical viewfinder, for shooting stills in live view and for shooting video.

The D780 offers two customizable buttons on the front of the camera that can be set to any one of a long list of functions; you can view them all here. Additionally, the AF-On and AE-L/AF-L buttons can be customized, and the bracket button on the front of the camera can also be customized to shoot multi-exposure images or HDRs.

Build Quality

Comfortable in the hand and familiar to any Nikon user, the D780 offers a solidly built camera with full weather sealing in a relatively lightweight body. On first glance, it looks very much like the D750, but is just a little smaller with a few button changes. For a full-frame DSLR as capable as the D780, it’s compact and ergonomic. It’s basically a D750/Z 6 hybrid.

A Few Random Features

The live view activation button has been moved up to the right of the viewfinder, and the video record button is on the top deck, next to the newly located ISO button.

These changes require some adaptation, but the new position of the ISO button will be familiar to users of the newer Nikon cameras. It is a better and more logical position than on the D750, which has it second from the bottom on the button stack to the left of the rear LCD. Testing the D780, I inadvertently activated video recording several times while reaching for the ISO, but my fingers learned relatively quickly which button was which.

780 top.jpg

I know that I said I wouldn’t talk about video in this review, but quickly: Video shooting is much improved, and the D780 can shoot UHD 4K at up to 30 frames per second, or HD at up to 120 frames per second.

Moreover, there is now the option to create time-lapses from images shot with the Interval Timer Shooting mode instead of the Time-Lapse Movie option of the D850, which means you can keep the RAW files and still produce an in-camera time-lapse on the go. The D780 also has the same focus stacking mode as the D850.

The D780 is compatible with most Nikon F-mount lenses, including AI-S and all Nikon AF models.

On the negative side, there is no option for a battery grip, and the pop-up flash of the D750 is absent from its descendant. I suspect some people will miss these features, but they are relatively minor issues for a night photographer. Also, the intervalometer connects with the same fussy DC2 port. It’s difficult to identify the correct orientation of the plug, especially in the dark. Fortunately, it’s necessary only for timed exposures longer than 15 minutes.

Wish List

Although the D780 has most of the features that I would want on my dream camera, there are a few things would make it the hands-down ideal for a night photographer:

  • Extended shutter speeds down another couple of stops to 1 hour. I’m grateful for the extension to 15 minutes, but why stop there?

  • Image quality at ISO 25,600 comparable to what we get at 6400 on the D750/Z 6/D780. Those extra 2 stops would provide the much-needed wiggle room that astro-landscape photographers often need with our exposure variables. NPF Rule, anyone?

  • An easier way to access the brightest possible live view image in low-light situations. The live view interface of the D780 is the same as the Z 6 and much cleaner and easier to use than that of the D750. However, a workaround is still required to get the best possible live view image at night.

  • The flip lever to close the optical viewfinder (which prevents light from entering the back of the camera during long exposures) that’s found on the D810, D850 and D4-D6.

  • The D500, D850 and D5-D6 have backlit buttons for ease of use in the dark. Their absence on the D780 is a distinction from the top-of-the-line models that cost considerably more.

Fern and Waterfall, Portland, Oregon. A daylight image showing the dynamic range and color depth of the D780 sensor. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 24-120mm f/4G lens at 120 mm. 1/50, f/8, ISO 100.

A couple of features from other manufacturers that would be amazing to see developed for Nikon:

  • Many Canon cameras have the ability to hold images in the buffer and process Long Exposure Noise Reduction while you keep shooting new images. They also have an auto-LENR feature that applies noise reduction as needed and that doesn’t necessarily double the exposure length. I’d like both these features in a Nikon body. Imagine being able to use LENR for all your shots without having to wait for it!

  • The Astrotracer feature of the Pentax K1 for getting around the longest usable shutter speed limitation in astro-landscape photography is based on in-camera image stabilization. It’s not likely ever to appear on a Nikon camera, but it sure would be sweet to have.

Image Quality

What surprised me when I began comparing images from the D750, Z 6 and D780 was not how good the D780’s image quality is, but how well the 6-year-old D750’s images stood up to the newer cameras. That’s not to say that the D780 is in any way a disappointment––to the contrary, the overall image quality is among the best of any 24-megapixel camera that I’ve used.

In the limited testing I was able to do, any difference in image quality at ISO 6400 and 12,800 was negligible. There may be slightly less noise in the shadows on the newer cameras up to ISO 12,800. It was only at ISO 25,600 where the D780 and Z 6 were noticeably better. At ISO 25,600 on the D750, colors begin to bleed outside of detail boundaries and the image really starts to fall apart.

This begins to happen in a similar way at ISO 51,200 with the D780 and Z 6. The newer cameras essentially add one stop of usable ISO, but most photographers will probably still not want to shoot higher than 6400 or possibly 12,800 for nighttime landscape imaging. (There are pixel-peeping opportunities at the end of this post.)

Inyo Mine, Death Valley National Park. Examples of the D780’s high ISO capabilities. The RAW files can be downloaded for evaluation purposes (see the link at the end of this post). Nikon D780 with a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 at 20mm. From left to right: 6 seconds, f/4, ISO 12,800; 3 seconds, f/4, ISO 25,600; 1.6 seconds, f/4, ISO 51,200.

I did get to shoot in a contrasty mixed-light urban environment, and was impressed with the ability to pull detail out of deep shadows while preserving highlights, but wasn’t able to do side-by-side comparison testing of different cameras in that environment. DXO Mark rates the sensor on the Z 6 (and the D780 by extrapolation) at 14.3 stops at base ISO compared to 14.5 stops for the D750. This minor difference of one-third of a stop probably cannot be appreciated in real-world situations as opposed to in the testing lab. More importantly, the new sensor tests at a full stop more (9.3) dynamic range at ISO 6400, which is the standard setting for astro-landscape photography.

The Kenworth of my Dreams, Portland, Oregon. The D780 is remarkably well-suited to urban night photography. Highlight and shadow detail is preserved and color rendering is gorgeous. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 30 seconds, f/11, ISO 100.

Despite having the D780 for a while, I didn’t have the chance to photograph with it under starlight conditions––mostly due to lunar phase timing while I had it in California and an extended period of overcast skies here in Vermont. I have used the Z 6 for astro-landscape photography, and it produces some of the best Milky Way images I’ve ever seen. Assuming that the D780 has the same sensor as the Z 6, albeit with a few tweaks in how the images are processed, then both are class-leading for astro-landscape imaging.

ISO Invariance

Like the D750 and D850, the D780 sensor is ISO-invariant, meaning that you can underexpose by several stops to preserve highlights and bring up the shadows in post-processing without majorly compromising overall image quality. This is likely due to the dual-gain sensor that has been featured in many of the best-performing cameras released in the last few years.

The pixels in dual-gain sensors have two readout modes, the first at native and modestly increased ISOs for maximum dynamic range, and another for lower noise at higher ISOs at the expense of dynamic range. The D850 high-ISO readout mode kicks in at ISO 1600. I have not been able to determine when it switches over in the Z 6 and D780, but it’s probably similar to the D850.

The Orange Chair, Portland, Oregon. An example illustrating the ISO invariance of the D780 sensor. Intentional underexposure by 3 stops preserves the highlight detail in the windows. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 20 seconds, f/11, ISO …

The Orange Chair, Portland, Oregon. An example illustrating the ISO invariance of the D780 sensor. Intentional underexposure by 3 stops preserves the highlight detail in the windows. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 PC lens. 20 seconds, f/11, ISO 100.

Lightroom basic settings for “The Orange Chair” photograph. Deep shadow detail recovered with only minimal added noise in post-processing. The RAW file adjustments on the image show an increase of +3.00 on the Exposure slider.

A Final Note on Image Quality

At the beginning of this article I mentioned a slight image quality improvement over the Z 6, and this has to do with the on-sensor phase-detection autofocus system. This is an advantageous feature, because it allows for phase-detection autofocus during live view. However, some of the pixel sites on the sensor are utilized for autofocus, which can cause a subtle banding effect in very deep shadows—especially when the exposure is raised in post-processing.

The D750 does not have this on-sensor system, and thus does not have this issue. The D780 does feature on-sensor phase-detection autofocus (the first Nikon DSLR to do so), but the banding issue has been resolved.

Conclusion

With so many great cameras to choose from, night photographers are not lacking for options. These days the debate is often about whether or not to make the switch from DSLR to mirrorless.

The D780 offers the best of both worlds in the form of a hybrid of the D750 and Z 6. The D780 has the phase-detection autofocus, the 4K video and the live view features of the Z 6 in a solid, compact DSLR body with a backside illuminated dual-gain sensor with great image quality at native, high and extreme ISOs. And don’t forget about the extended shutter speeds down to 15 minutes that virtually eliminate the need for an external intervalometer.

It’s not the perfect camera for night photography––we’re still waiting for that one, and likely always will be—but the D780 comes very close.

Many photographers have made the switch to mirrorless for the reduction in size and weight, and others have resisted the change because they are not ready to sacrifice their FX lenses or don’t want to deal with an adapter to use them. Personally, I prefer the user experience of the DSLR, and don’t feel that the modest decrease in size and weight of switching to mirrorless is worth the trade-offs. When I reviewed the D850 2 years ago, I concluded that upgrading from a D750 to D850 wasn’t worth it for me, as the primary benefit was increased resolution that I didn’t need and backlit buttons that were convenient but not worth the added cost or extra weight in my bag.

Now with the introduction of the D780, it’s once again time to consider an upgrade. I’m buying one.


which night photographers is the D780 for?

D750 owners

As one of Nikon’s most successful cameras ever, the D750 is hard to beat, though it is getting a little long in the tooth, having been released in 2014. With the D780, there’s a modest gain in image quality, especially at higher ISOs. However, most of the improvements have more to do with an updated user experience than better image quality. If you love your D750, but it has seen better days, or you are simply ready for an upgrade, you will not be disappointed with the D780.

Older Nikon full-frame camera owners

If you’ve been holding on to that D600, D610, D800 or even the D810, it’s time to upgrade. For D810 owners who need the higher resolution for huge prints, the D850 is probably a better choice for you.

Canon Shooters

Specifically, those who are dissatisfied with high ISO image quality, or struggle to use live view for focusing in the dark with their 5D Mark IV. Canon’s live view used to be one reason for a night photographer to choose Canon over Nikon. That changed with the inability to get a bright enough image for live view focusing with the 5D Mark IV and the greatly improved low-light live view performance in the Nikon Z 6, Z 7 and D780. The D780 has superior high ISO image quality for astro-landscape photography and wider dynamic range for urban night photography than any Canon camera.

APS-C Camera Owners

Yes, you. It’s time. It’s true that recent crop-sensor cameras do a much better job at high ISO than the older ones, but they cannot compare to the image quality of a modern full-frame sensor. For those on a budget, the D750 is still an outstanding value at $1,500. The $1,800 Z 6 is also a great option—it just depends on your preference for mirrorless or a DSLR. If you can afford it, get the D780. It’s worth the extra cost.

Z 6 Converts Who Love Their New Camera, but Miss Their DSLR

I know of at least one person who bought a Z 6 but switched to a D780 for this very reason. If I had bought a Z 6, I’d probably be in this category too.


Pixel Study: High ISOs

ISO 6400

ISO 12,800

ISO 25,600

Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1/4, f/5, ISO 51,200.

I shot the same image on the same night with the same lens and settings to test image quality at high ISOs between the D750, D780 and Z 6. The images were made under clear, moonlit skies, and the subject was illuminated with a Luxli Viola on a light stand. The lighting was unchanged during the testing, except that the moon rose higher into the sky, which altered the shadows.

I tested each camera at ISO 6400, ISO 12,800 and ISO 25,600. There is very little difference between the three cameras at ISO 6400 and ISO 12,800, but the D750 image starts to deteriorate at ISO 25,600.

I also tested the D780 at ISO 51,200. At this extreme ISO, the image from the D780 deteriorates in the same way as the D750 does at ISO 25,600. The colors start to bleed outside of contrast edges. Color noise is still easily managed by Lightroom’s default correction, and there is no sign of background pattern noise. Luminance noise is significant.


Download Test Images

So you can make your own evaluations, we are providing a selection of images made during the testing I did for this article at npan.co/D780testimages. They are mostly DNG files with embedded metadata. Feel free to download the files and manipulate them for evaluative purposes.

Warning: It might take awhile to download these, and we recommend not doing so with a mobile device using a cellular data connection. The files total nearly half a gigabyte.

(All images are © 2020 Lance Keimig, and may not be printed or republished without express written consent of the author.)


Your Thoughts

Have you had a chance to shoot with the Nikon D780 yet? We’d love to hear your impressions and see your night images! Please leave your thoughts and photos in the comments below, or on our Facebook page.

Lance Keimig is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He has been photographing at night for 30 years, and is the author of Night Photography and Light Painting: Finding Your Way in the Dark (Focal Press, 2015). Learn more about his images and workshops at www.thenightskye.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT