Astronomical Events

From Plane to Rain to Desert Moon: The Great Lunar Eclipse Chase of 2025

It had been a while since we were last able to photograph a total lunar eclipse in the Americas—November 2022, to be exact. I missed shooting them, because I love shooting them.

I started chasing lunar eclipses in 2014 when I took a Dusk to Dawn workshop group to Las Vegas for the second in the tetrad of lunar eclipses that were happening over a one-year period. The next time was 2019, when I was in Atlanta and found a view of downtown with car trails and a big super blood moon.

High Roller & Lunar Moon Trail, 2014. 55mm focal length, 15 minutes f/8, ISO 400.

The 2019 super blood wolf moon (aka the lunar eclipse) over Atlanta. Foreground: 35mm lens, 25 seconds, f/16, ISO 200; background (moon): 600mm lens, 1/2 second, f/5.6, ISO 3200.

Lunar eclipses are relatively easy to shoot, compared to solar eclipses—you don’t need special filters and you typically have an hour of totality instead of mere minutes. Looking back recently, a common theme I noticed was that I had shot all my lunar eclipses in urban locations. So for the March 2025 eclipse last week, I wanted to travel someplace dark. Given that I would be in Vegas again right before this eclipse, I set my eyes on experiencing the event in the gold-tier dark skies of nearby Death Valley National Park.

The Players

As always is the case with night photography, I wanted to enjoy this experience with others. I was heading to Vegas for the WPPI conference, so it wasn’t hard to find friends who were willing to adventure together. The team comprised:

  • Susan Magnano, night photographer, luminescent portrait expert, Night Photo Summit speaker and birthday girl!

  • Clifford Pickett, post-processing wizard and educator in all things photography

  • JC Carey, master of bringing light and drama to any scene with his Westcott strobes always at the ready

The Plan

Death Valley is a vast national park with lots of scenery options. The idea I proposed was to photograph the hexagonal patterns of salt flats with mountains in the distance (like in the photo below) and the moon high in the sky.

Salt flat formations, Death Valley National Park. © Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. 1/320, f/8, ISO 100.

JC and I planned to fly in early on the 13th and head right to Death Valley. Susan and Cliff were already there and were able to do some key scouting for locations.

When JC and I landed, the weather was horrible. It was raining, totally overcast, windy and cold. But the forecast for Death Valley was that things would clear up about an hour before totality. That being said, Death Valley has different weather all over the massive park, so we kept our fingers crossed.

Another not-so-fun fact about Death Valley (depending on your priorities) is that it has very limited cell reception. Fortunately we got just enough of a sliver of service to learn that when Susan and Cliff scouted Badwater Basin—the usual spot for shooting salt patterns—they found nothing. Hurricane Hillary in 2023 and heavy rains in 2024 wiped out the formations (which is part of the normal cycle of nature there), and new ones had not completely reformed yet. So Susan and Cliff found another location with more defined patterns, and they sent us a pin.

The Shoot

Dropped pins work OK in Death Valley, as long as you have downloaded an offline map in Google Maps—which fortunately I had. We found Susan and Cliff after only one turnaround, when we spotted a lone car parked on the side of the road and a few tripods out in the darkness. We pulled over and called out “Susan, is that you?” A familiar voice called back, “You made it!” Finding your friends in the dark can be a very comforting feeling.

The sky was looking pretty good. There were still some big patchy clouds, but to the west were lots of stars. The air was a little chilly with winds approximately 10 mph, which was down significantly from the 50 mph winds earlier.

We started looking for primo honeycomb patterns that we could frame in front of the moon. By the time the clouds cleared, the eclipse was halfway toward totality. It looked very cool.

I had two setups going, but the main one was my Nikon Z 8 with a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens low to the ground to emphasize the raised lines of salt. I focused on the hyperfocal distance and was able to achieve sharp focus from 3 feet away to the stars at infinity.

Once totality kicked in and the moon turned dark red, I needed to home in on the proper exposure for the moon with detail. The correct foreground shot (Figure 1) was 8 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400. The properly exposed wide moon shot (Figure 2) was 1/2, f/4, ISO 1250. That is a five-plus-stop difference in exposure.

Figure 1. The foreground exposure. Nikon Z 8 with a Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. 8 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Figure 2. The moon exposure. 1/2, f/4, ISO 1250.

I shot both frames at 18mm and later blended the properly exposed lunar eclipse with the foreground in Photoshop (Figure 3).

I shot a few different takes of this with different salt patterns, and I also used a Luxli Fiddle at .1 percent power to sidelight the scene and bring out the texture of the ground. However, for this foreground shot a car was driving down the road and the sidelight from the headlights provided the perfect visual punch to the salt flats.

Figure 3. The final blended image.

I also had my Nikon ZF camera mounted with a 100-400mm lens to get some close-up views of the eclipse during totality. I was inspired by Chris Nicholson’s bright star field capture of the lunar eclipse in 2022 and wanted to create something similar that as well.

The stars were really sparkling during totality and my proper lunar eclipse exposure (Figure 4) was 1/15, f/5.6, ISO 6400 shooting with the lens at 185mm. The sharp star field shot (Figure 5) was 1/2, f/5.6, ISO 25,600 also at 185mm.

Figure 4. Nikon ZF with a Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens at 185mm. 1/15, f/5.6, ISO 6400.

Figure 5. 1/2, f/5.6, ISO 25,600.

What made blending these images together (Figure 6) easier than typical moon-swapping blends is that the glow around the moon was minimal because the moon was so dim.

Figure 6. The final blended image.

The Group Experience

It was very cool to experience the lunar eclipse in a dark location such as Death Valley. We were able to experience a variety of night photography opportunities due to the full-moon transition from a bright sky and landscape to an incredibly dark sky with stars aplenty, then back again, all within a few hours.

What I also found to be fun was that each of us were trying different interpretations of the lunar eclipse. JC’s favorite was a timelapse he set up that really shows the transition of the eclipse into totality.

© 2025 JC Carey.

Of course it wouldn’t be a night shoot with Susan if she didn’t bring out her light tubes and start taking luminescent portraits! That was super fun and a wonderful way to forever commemorate the Great Lunar Eclipse Chase of 2025.

© 2025 Susan Magnano.

© 2025 Susan Magnano.

Your Turn

We’d love to see your eclipse images and hear your eclipse stories! Share in the comments below, or on our Facebook page, or on Instagram (tag us @nationalparksatnight #nationalparksatnight #seizethenight).

If you didn’t get to shoot this lunar eclipse, another will hit the Americas on March 3, 2026. You’ll need to go west to see totality—in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California and Canada. Bring friends. It’s the best way to enjoy and remember the experience!

Gabriel Biderman is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He is a Brooklyn-based fine art and travel photographer, and author of Night Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Peachpit, 2014). During the daytime hours you'll often find Gabe at one of many photo events around the world working for B&H Photo’s road marketing team. See his portfolio and workshop lineup at www.ruinism.com.

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Are You Ready for the Total Lunar Eclipse of 2025?

If total lunar eclipses seem like a thing of the past, there’s a good reason for that: The world hasn’t seen one since 2022. But have no fear—the disappearing act is back!

This week the moon will cross completely into Earth’s shadow, providing an opportunity for most of the photographers in the Western Hemisphere to get out and shoot this uncommon celestial event.

This eclipse will happen on the overnight of March 13 to 14, 2025—in other words, you want to be out tomorrow night. We’re offering this blog post to help you get prepared.

Info About the Eclipse

To learn more about this eclipse, we recommend checking out these excellent resources:

Where to See the Eclipse

A good portion of the Western Hemisphere will witness the total eclipse, including all of the contiguous United States and the eastern half of Alaska, plus all of Canada, all of Central America and half of South America.

Courtesy of NASA.

How to Shoot the Eclipse

Gear

You don’t need any special equipment beyond what you’d use to photograph any moon at night: camera, lens, tripod. You can add a cable remote, an intervalometer, a star tracker, etc., but you won’t need any special light filters or anything of that nature.

Consider using both long and wide lenses to create different types of compositions. The former will give you great moon portraits, while the latter will allow you to portray the moon as an element of a wider night scene (see below). The visible eclipse will last 3.5 hours from beginning to end, and totality will last about an hour. You can work through a lot of scenarios and ideas in that much time, and you can even wait out clouds that might be blocking the moon for a bit.

Lunar eclipse over Price Lake, Blue Ridge Parkway. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. Three blended frames shot at 30 seconds (foreground), 15 seconds (stars) and 1/4 second (moon), f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Scouting

Use PhotoPills to see ahead of time where the moon will be in the sky during the eclipse. You can do this with the Eclipse panel in the Planner, or if you’re already on location just use Night AR in the Moon pill to visualize where the moon will move during the times mentioned above.

Exposure

Pay attention to shutter speed. The moon moves faster than it appears—a little less than 2,300 miles per hour. The moon moves the length of its diameter every 2 minutes.

This means that if your shutter speed is too long, the moon will blur. The wider your lens, the longer shutter speed you can get away with—even as long as 10 seconds or so. But with longer lenses, you’ll be limited to much shorter speeds.

Be ready to change exposure. The moon will get darker closer to the middle of the eclipse, so an exposure that looks good at 1:30 a.m. EDT will appear dark at 3 a.m., and your good 3 a.m. exposure will blow out the moon at 5:00 a.m. But you have to be careful about compensating for that loss of illumination by changing your shutter speed too much, lest your moon go soft from motion (see above). Therefore, during totality you’ll probably want to increase your ISO instead.

More Info

In the past we’ve written a few blog posts about lunar eclipse photography. Reading through them will offer a little more context about how to work this week.

When to Shoot the Eclipse

All phases of the eclipse will happen simultaneously for viewers across time zones. However, because your watches will be different, the times will be different. To that end, we offer the following guides for when to be out shooting, and for when to expect what. (Click to open, right-click to download.)

Atlantic Daylight Time (GMT -3)

Eastern Daylight Time (GMT -4)

Central Daylight Time (GMT -5)

Mountain Daylight Time (GMT -6)

Pacific Daylight Time (GMT -7)

Alaska Daylight Time (GMT -8)

Wrapping Up

We wish all of you great success in shooting for the moon this week! Please come back and share your photos with us. Share in the comments below, or on our Facebook page, or on Instagram (tag us @nationalparksatnight #nationalparksatnight #seizethenight). Be sure to tell a story too—the technical aspects, the challenge overcome, or a tale of the experience.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and director of content with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015) and Photographing Lighthouses (Sidelight Books, 2025). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Wishing Upon Some Falling Stars: The Tau Herculids May (or May Not) be a Night of a Lifetime

One autumn night in 1995 I arrived home late. I was about to walk into the back door of the house when I casually looked up at the stars, and there it was: comet 73P/Schwassmann-Wachmann 3. Wow. It was as clear as anything else in the sky, beautifully floating amidst the stars. I’d never seen anything like it. Moreover, after Halley’s Comet had so disappointed me as a young teen in 1986, I’d really expected never to see any comet at all.

Sometimes the universe can seem so static. From one night to the next we look up and see what seems like the same stars, the same moon, the same unfathomable expanse of nothing that surrounds our pale blue dot.

Then something reminds us that the universe is always in motion, always in flux, always ready with a surprise. We get a lunar eclipse that seizes the interest of half the globe. Or a comet that no one had known existed sails in from the Kuiper belt and dazzles us for a glorious summer month. Or, in the case of this week, a brand new meteor shower rains stars into our night sky.

Comet NEOWISE over Jordan Pond, Acadia National Park. © 2020 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. Six stitched frames shot at 15 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

What? Well, maybe. This Monday, May 30, we might see one of the most dazzling displays of meteors ever. Or not. Astronomers aren’t sure, and the only way to find out is to stay up and look up.

The meteoroids in question do exist. They’re left over from that 1995 flyby, and now Earth is maybe about to come upon them in space.

Maybe? Well, astronomers aren’t exactly sure how far the debris has traveled, but some credible projections put them right in Earth’s path. If those projections are accurate, and if we pass through the heart of the debris cloud, it could produce one of the densest clusters of shooting stars ever witnessed. The Tau Herculid Meteor Shower, as its come to be known, could be astronomically historic.

What does that mean in terms of the number of potential shooting stars? The meteorologist for The Washington Post says 1,000 per hour. Universe Today says as many as 1,400. (To put those numbers in perspective, consider that a really good year for the famous Perseid Meteor Shower yields about 100 per hour.)

Perseid Meteor Shower outburst over Badlands National Park. © 2021 Matt Hill.

But, again, the Tau Herculid number could be zero.

In fact, zero is the hunch of Tyler Nordgen, astronomer, Night Photo Summit speaker and author of the book Stars Above, Earth Below: A Guide to Astronomy in the National Parks. “If I were to bet, I’d say this upcoming meteor shower will turn out to be nothing,” Nordgren says. “I still remember spending a perfectly starry night out in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore for the supposed Camelopardalids meteor ‘storm’ in May 2014 and not seeing a single meteor all night.”

Still, Nordgren says the potential for what could happen is probably worth a look. “It only has to actually happen once for you to see (or miss) the experience of a lifetime. So if it’s clear, I’ll go out. I’m not making a special trip to the desert Southwest, but I’ll hang out in my backyard and see what I can see. What’s the worst that can happen?”

Shooting the Potential Shower

This all brings us to what to do as photographers. I say get the camera ready and get outside.

If you choose that option, Nordgren has some advice: “Use a wide-angle lens to capture a lot of sky. Point upward with something on the horizon in the field of view to give a sense of scale, and just let the camera expose for 10, 20, 40, 90 seconds or more. See what you capture. It takes only one photo to make a night to remember.”

If you want to shoot the meteor shower, download our e-book Great Balls of Fire by clicking the image above.

For even more to strategize such a shoot, see our blog post “How to Photograph a Meteor Shower.” Better yet, read our e-book Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers.

Boötes the Herdsman

For this particular meteor shower, the radiant will be near the Boötes the Herdsman constellation, which is around the bright orange star Arcturus and not far from the handle of the Big Dipper. To find it, use an app such as Sky Map (Android), Sky Guide (iOS) or Stellarium (ambivalent). Alternatively, use PhotoPills—they just added the Tau Herculids to their meteor shower data, so you can do a full scout like with pretty much any other celestial event. Include the radiant in your composition to get the best chance of capturing a meteor, or to capture a series of exposures for creating a “meteor radiant” image.

The Western Hemisphere (and a small part of West Africa) will be the best place to view the shower (weather-permitting), unless you’re in a midnight-sun or simmer-dim kind of area. Be outside and look up around 1 a.m. EDT, or 10 p.m. PDT.

Again, this event might not be an event at all. If you’re undecided whether to try to witness or photograph the potential shower, here are some pros and cons:

Pros

  • If the meteors do show, they could produce a once-in-many-lifetimes experience.

  • We’re in a new moon, so lunar conditions are optimal to see any stars that may fall.

Cons

  • Though the number of meteors could be high, most are likely to be dim. (Visible and photographable, but not bright like the Perseids.)

  • The radiant is high—halfway up from the horizon on the east coast, and nearly overhead on the west. This makes including the landscape in compositions more challenging. (But not impossible.)

More Information

For more about the Tau Herculids, see these great articles:

Show Us What You Get

Will you wish upon some falling stars? If you’re feeling lucky or adventurous and you go out to shoot, we’d love to see your photos. Please share them in the comments section or on our Facebook page, or tag us (@nationalparksatnight) on Instagram.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Once in a Red Moon: Photographing the Lunar Eclipse

Cameras ready! This evening’s night skies will feature a total lunar eclipse.

The show will last about 3.5 hours, beginning at about 10:30 p.m. Eastern time, and ending at about 2 a.m., with totality falling between about 11:30 and 1. Moreover, the eclipse will be visible to about one-third of humans around the world—in most of Europe, Africa, and North and South America (including all of the United States)—providing extraordinary photo opportunities to countless photographers.

A lunar eclipse differs from its solar cousin in that we don’t get a total blackout, or a ring of fire, or any of that kind of end-of-days drama. But the moon, should weather allow you to see it, will become completely dim and red.

Why? Because a solar eclipse is a phenomenon of the light source (the sun) being blocked from view, while a lunar eclipse is a phenomenon of the moon moving into a shadow. When something is in a shadow, you can usually still see it—just dimmer, and perhaps with altered color. That’s exactly what’s happening during a total lunar eclipse. The moon appears dimmer in the Earth’s shadow, and takes on first a yellowish and then a reddish hue because the only light hitting it is being bent and filtered through our atmosphere.

A Quick Rundown

Here are a few notes on photographing a lunar eclipse:

No special gear is needed beyond what you’d use to photograph any moon at night: camera, lens, tripod. You can add a cable remote, an intervalometer, a star tracker, etc., but you won’t need any special light filters or anything of that nature.

Use PhotoPills to see ahead of time where the moon will be in the sky during the eclipse. You can do this with the Eclipse panel in the Planner, or if you’re already on location just use Night AR in the Moon pill to visualize where the moon will move during the times mentioned above.

PhotoPills.com showing the location of the moon at the time of peak totality, as it can be seen from the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.

Consider using both long and wide lenses to create different types of compositions. The former will give you great moon portraits, while the latter will allow you to portray the moon as an element of a wider night scene.

Slow down. The eclipse will last 3.5 hours from beginning to end, and totality will last about 90 minutes. You can work through a lot of scenarios and ideas in that much time, and you can even wait out clouds that might be blocking the moon for a bit.

Pay attention to shutter speed. The moon moves faster than it appears—a little less than 2,300 miles per hour. According to Lance Keimig’s book Night Photography and Light Painting, that means the moon moves the length of its diameter every 2 minutes. If your shutter speed is too long, it will blur. The wider your lens, the longer shutter speed you can get away with—even as long as 10 seconds or so. But with longer lenses, you’ll be limited to much shorter speeds. (Below, see a graphic from a test Matt Hill ran a few years ago, based on using a 300mm lens.)

Be ready to change exposure. The moon will get darker closer to the middle of the eclipse, so an exposure that looks good at 10:30 p.m. EDT will appear dark at midnight, and your good midnight exposure will blow out the moon at 1:30 a.m. But you have to be careful about compensating for that loss of illumination by changing your shutter speed too much, lest your moon go soft from motion (see the previous point). Therefore, during totality you’ll probably want to increase your ISO instead.

Further Exploration

Obviously you can dive a lot deeper into a topic such as this. Here are a few options:

Wrapping Up

We wish all of you great success in shooting for the moon tonight! Please come back and share your photos with us.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Capturing the Comet: How to Photograph the Night Surprise of NEOWISE

The lighthouse on Monhegan Island is an amazing place to shoot at night. But then we saw the comet, and the lighthouse may as well have not even existed. We quickly moved away from the compositions we’d been working so hard on and focused on the celestial visitor instead.

Lance and I are midway through a two-week trip to Maine, where we’re leading two workshops along some of the most beautiful coastline in the U.S. And gosh did we (and the attending night photographers) luck out, because our time here coincided perfectly with the astronomy surprise of the year: Comet NEOWISE.

Photographing the comet quickly became high on the priority list not only for our participants, but also for us. It’s not common to get such an opportunity—once every 7 millennia, for this particular comet—and all of us have been pretty excited by the chase.

We have one more week in Maine, shooting first on Monhegan Island, then moving to Acadia National Park. But before moving on, we wanted to share some tips about photographing the comet, so you can get outdoors too and take advantage of this amazing night-sky event.

Comet NEOWISE over the Monhegan Island Lighthouse keeper’s quarters, Maine. © 2020 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens, illuminated by the lighthouse and a Luxli Viola. 25 seconds, f/3.5, ISO 6400.

Finding NEOWISE

First you need to know where in the sky to look for the comet, and when to look there. Fortunately both are pretty easy.

When the comet was first appearing earlier this month, it was doing so in early, early morning—but now (thank goodness) it’s showing up at nautical twilight and hanging around for a few hours before dipping below the horizon. This schedule is much easier for most people to work with.

Where is the comet hanging around? In the north-northwest sky, below the Big Dipper. (See Figure 1. This is for the Northern Hemisphere. Unfortunately our night photography friends south of the equator don’t get to share this show.)

Figure 1. A rough projection of where in the sky to find Comet NEOWISE this coming week. In general, starting at dusk, look north-northwest, below the Big Dipper. The comet will appear to rotate with the rest of the sky, and will set below the horizon a few hours after first appearing.

Each night the comet will appear slightly more west, as well as slightly higher from the horizon (thereby lasting a little longer before setting). As the evening hours progress, NEOWISE will appear to move toward the horizon with the stars and constellations, eventually setting out of view. Assuming clear skies, you’ll have lots of time to experiment with different strategies and compositions.

Figure 2. If you’d like help finding the comet in the field, try the Sky Guide app (for iOS and Android), which will pinpoint the comet.

How long will the comet be visible? Astronomers are hypothesizing that we’ll be able to see it until about the end of July. But precision is hard to come by. The good news this week is that the comet is traveling closer to Earth, which should make it larger in the sky; the bad news is that it’s traveling further from the sun, which should mean it won’t be as bright. At some point NEOWISE will cross a threshold where those variables make it even less visible, and then invisible.

Either way, the rest of this week should be the prime opportunity for photography. The comet will be detectable at reasonable hours during very dark skies (i.e., with a new moon). After that, as the comet fades from view, the moon will be growing larger and setting later, eventually obscuring the final acts of the NEOWISE show.

Photographing NEOWISE

As mentioned, we’ve been photographing NEOWISE for a week, so we have some tips we can offer. We hope these will help as you get out this week to capture the comet.

Sharpness

To keep the comet sharp with a long exposure, you’ll want to approach shutter speed the same way as when trying to keep stars or the Milky Way sharp: Use either the 400 Rule, or for more precision, the NPF Rule. In other words, if your stars are sharp, then your comet will be too.

Of course, the comet is by nature a fuzzy-looking thing, so you can get away with a longer shutter speed—perhaps even twice as long as you’d use for a standard sharp-star shot. For example, if a camera/lens combo would allow for a 15-second exposure to freeze the stars, you might be able to shoot for 30 seconds and acceptably freeze the comet. However, then the stars in your image would begin to trail (Figure 3). So it’s probably best to keep shooting for sharp stars, and then everything in your frame will be crisp.

Figure 3. Both of these photos were shot with a 200mm lens—one at 2 seconds, which is compliant with the 400 Rule, the other at 15 seconds, which allowed for shooting at a lower ISO. The comet isn’t that much fuzzier in the latter image, but the stars are trailing. In the former image, despite the higher noise, everything is sharp.

(Another tactic could be the opposite philosophy. Why keep the comet sharp? Maybe photograph a comet trail!)

Lens Choice

The lens you choose will depend on your composition, of course, but it will also depend on your priorities.

If you would like the comet to appear larger in your frame, you’ll want to use a longer lens. However, the longer the lens you use, the shorter your exposure will need to be to keep the comet and stars sharp, which means you’ll need more light to make a good image.

Therefore, if you want to use a longer lens, you’ll probably want to shoot during twilight, when there’s more light in the sky to work with. For example, if shooting with a 200mm lens, the 400 Rule dictates a maximum of 2 seconds for the shutter speed before stars and the comet begin to trail. At twilight with an f/2.8 lens you can shoot for 2 seconds at ISO 3200 or 6400, but after twilight you would need an ISO of 64,000. So, yeah, best to save those telephotos for twilight.

Once you’re into astronomical twilight and beyond, stick with shorter lenses. The comet will appear smaller in your frame, but with creativity you can make the image work (Figure 4). Just put the comet somewhere in the scene where it will be noticeable and will complement the composition. In other words, you’re essentially making an environmental portrait of NEOWISE. Most of the good comet photos I’ve seen were made this way.

Figure 4. Comet NEOWISE over the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, Maine. © 2020 Lance Keimig. Nikon D750 with a Sigma 24mm f/1.4 Art lens. 13 seconds, f/4, ISO 6400.

Compositing

You could also use both types of lenses to make a composite image. You could shoot a big comet with a long lens earlier in the evening, the foreground and a big sky with a short lens later in the evening, and blend them together in post-production.

This approach is not something I favor either for my artistic process or when looking at others’ artwork—I just don’t like unnatural proportions of natural objects (i.e., a giant moon over a wide-angle alpine landscape). But such a strategy is possible, so it’s prudent to mention here. If you like that style, or you’d like to try that style, the comet is a good subject for it.

Compiling Light

Just like with stars, there are other approaches to keeping the comet sharp, and they involve some way of “stacking” the available light to create a low-noise image in a high-ISO situation. This might allow you to use that longer lens at a lower ISO, or to just get a cleaner final photograph.

  1. Stack multiple exposures of the same sky scene using a program such as Starry Landscape Stacker for Mac or Sequator for PC. (See our blog post “Processing Star Point Images … .” This works great for creating crisp, low-noise photos of stars, and works well with a comet too. On the other hand, it means more work both in the field and at the computer.

  2. Use a sky-tracking device, such those made by SkyWatcher and Move Shoot Move (Figure 5). These mount to your tripod and slowly rotate the camera to counteract the rotation of the earth, which allows you to shoot the night sky with longer exposures and lower ISOs. This method also requires a little more field work, as well as some extra post-production time if you want to mask in a sharp foreground.

Figure 5. The Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer (left) and Move Shoot Move Portable Star Tracker (right) are two gear options that allow you to shoot longer exposures of moving stars (and comets).

White Balance

The approach to white balance is not much different than it would be photographing any other night. Just shoot how you normally would for a given environment. Here are a couple of resources from our blog to help you decide:

Mind the Moon

As mentioned previously, the moon is about to crash the comet party. This means two things:

  1. In the nights after the Monday new moon, a thin crescent will be low in the sky during twilight, which might sound tempting for including it in a composition with NEOWISE. However, the moon rises in the east, more than 100 compass degrees away from the comet. So you’re not likely to get them in the same frame in a good composition. (Unless you shoot a pano. Hmm.)

  2. After a few nights (Friday, where we are), the moon will still be in the sky after astronomical twilight is over. It will be at 20 percent illumination that night, and getting brighter, and setting later, on each successive night. Concurrently, the comet will be traveling further from the sun and from Earth. All of these factors together mean that NEOWISE will grow fainter each night.

Find a Foreground

Shooting a comet certainly has a wow factor—just like shooting the Milky Way, or a meteor shower, or a moon rise, etc. But all of those are better when set in the context of a composition that includes other elements.

So rather than just pointing your camera at the sky, remember to look for an interesting foreground, and set the comet behind it. A good rule of thumb is that if the composition isn’t interesting without the comet, then it won’t be a great photo even with the comet.

Look for a lighthouse, or a building, or a shoreline, or a sea stack, or a train trestle, or a rock formation, or mountain road, or an old barn, etc. Make a good composition with the comet as an important element alongside whatever else, and you’re on your way to artistic greatness.

Wrapping Up

Of course, as always, we would love to see your images of Comet NEOWISE. Share them in the comments section or on our Facebook page. (To view a bunch of great images our workshop alumni and others have already shared, see this post.)

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT