lightning

Guiding the Light: Our Friend Improves Luxli LED Panels

Since the moment they were created and released, we have been quite partial to the Luxli Fiddle and Viola LED light panels, for both light painting and Low-Level Lighting. We feel that Luxli panels are the tools that offer the most precise control over added lighting for the type of night photography that we do.

However, until recently, that precision was mostly about the brightness and color temperature of the illumination. Photographers also need to be able to control light diffusion and spill. Originally Luxli provided a means for the former, in the form of diffusion screens that spread their already wide light sources even wider. Then last year Luxli introduced a grid attachment that narrowed the spread of the light from the Fiddle by about half and reduced the light intensity by about a third.

The Story

Fast forward to August 2023, and our 100th workshop celebration in New York City, which was attended by Josh Fischer from Luxli, as well as our good friend Jeff McCrum.

Josh is our primary contact at Luxli, and the person who goes to bat for us when we have feature requests or suggestions. It’s a tough job, as the kind of work we do with Luxli lights is quite different from what they were originally designed for, and the features that are important for us are not even on the radar of most people who buy them. (Not many videographers use the lights at 1 percent brightness, let alone .1 percent!)

Jeff is a New Jersey-based lighting designer for Fisher Dachs Associates, one of the world’s leading theater planning and design consultants. He’s also an avid night photographer. Most of us at National Parks at Night have known him for a long time––I first met Jeff the same day that I first met Matt at Sleepy Hollow Cemetery when I was leading a workshop there, years before the birth of NPAN.

Sloss Furnaces National Historic Landmark, Birmingham, Alabama. Lit with a flashlight raked across the rear wall from camera left, as well as by three Luxli Fiddle panels with grids. The one illuminating the wheel in the lower right corner has Jeff’s tighter grid. Nikon D780 with an Olympus Zuiko 24mm f/3.5 shift lens. 60 seconds, f/11, ISO 400.

At our celebration in New York, I was chatting with Jeff when Josh came over to say hello. We talked about the Fiddle, and how much we (NPAN) appreciated the new grid, but that we had some ideas about how to improve it. I explained that we often used Cinefoil or Blackwrap to try to further tighten the beam of light, but that it wasn’t easy to achieve the desired effect.

I asked Josh if Luxli would consider making a tighter grid that narrowed the light beam even more. Josh seemed receptive to the idea, and said he would share our suggestion with the engineers. Encouraged, I mentioned another issue we’ve experienced with the fiddle: the power switch being inadvertently activated in the camera bag, which not only leads to unexpected dead batteries but is also a potential safety issue due to heat buildup.

I didn’t give the conversation much further thought until I received a mysterious package in the mail from Jeff about 5 or 6 weeks later.

Upon opening the package, I was stunned to find a redesigned Luxli Fiddle grid that addressed exactly the issue I had spoken with Josh about! It was thicker, with a deeper honeycomb grid, meaning the light beam from the Fiddle would be narrower and dimmer, both of which would be useful to night photographers. Moreover, the back side of Jeff’s grid extended to cover the edges of the light, which is a culprit of light leakage in the original grid. In short, Jeff had reverse-engineered the Luxli grid, and changed it in such a way that it was now tailored specifically for us night shooters.

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

The above examples show the light intensity and beam size with (from left to right) the Fiddle alone, the Luxli grid and the Lanceli grid. Figure 1 shows the light pointed up, and Figure 2 shows the light directed straight ahead. (Settings were the same for all images to show the light reduction as well as light distribution.)

According to Jeff, the Fiddle by itself has a 102-degree light spread. The Luxli grid reduces the light output by 23 percent and limits the light spread to 58 degrees. His version, which I’m both embarrassed and humbled to say is named the Lanceli, reduces the light output by 39 percent and brings the beam down to 36 degrees.

The loss of light is not a problem—because we work in dark conditions, we often use these LED panels at 1 percent power or less. The net effect is that with Jeff’s custom-built solution, we now have much more precise control over where the light falls, making it easier to isolate added light to a localized area or a small object in the scene. It’s another tool in the toolbox, and I’m glad to have the option to use either or both of these grids as different needs arise. As both grids are pure black, they have no impact on the color of the light.

The Lanceli grid for the Luxli Fiddle.

The Lanceli grid was not the only thing in the package! I also found a small, strangely shaped piece of plastic that solves the problem of the Fiddle switch being inadvertently turned on in transit––the Luxli Switch Protector! This cleverly designed little gadget attaches securely and unobtrusively over the switch to ensure that it doesn’t get accidentally activated. Not only that, but it is made of glow-in-the-dark material, making it easy to find at the end of the night when you are packing up to go home.

If that wasn’t enough, Jeff also designed a grid system for the Luxli Viola, called the Hex Stack. Luxli does not make a grid for the Viola, so this is an entirely new product. As the name implies, the Hex Stack can be combined in multiples to further reduce the light spill by about 20 degrees per piece.

As with the Fiddle grid, the Hex Stack fully hides the edges of the light source by overlapping the outside of the fixture. Each piece added to the stack also decreases the intensity from the original output by about one stop. The Hex Stack is held solidly in place by sliding into a slot in the panel itself from either side.

Lit with three Luxli Fiddle panels with grids. The one illuminating the round tank end in the lower center has Jeff’s tighter grid. Nikon D780 with an Olympus Zuiko 24mm f/3.5 shift lens. 60 seconds, f/11, ISO 400.

Lit with two Luxli Fiddle panels. The one illuminating the wheel has Jeff’s tighter grid, and the one lighting the ground is unmodified. Nikon D780 with an Olympus Zuiko 24mm f/3.5 shift lens. 30 seconds, f/11, ISO 400.

Jeff was pretty nonchalant about the effort that he must have put into creating these tools, but they are incredibly well designed, durable and super-functional. Grids have been used to modify the light on studio strobes for decades, but creating one for an LED light unit that has over 100 individual emitters is a couple of orders of magnitude more complex. Each cell in the grid has to align precisely over an emitter in order to maximize both the effect and the output. All of these tools are made with a 3D printer using non-toxic PLA plastic.

Despite the name of the grid, Jeff didn’t make these tools for just my benefit. He’s sharing them with the night photography world! You can purchase the Lanceli (comes with a Fiddle Switch Protector) or the Hex Stack from Jeff’s website.

Much Ado About Lighting

Why is this a big deal, you might ask? Back in the day, when most light painting was done with a handheld flashlight––often one with a narrow, focused beam–– it was relatively easy to direct the light exactly where it was needed, even onto a small area in the scene. The challenge with flashlights is getting consistent, repeatable results, and not being able to see the cumulative effect of your lighting in real time. With Low-Level Lighting, using LED panels in fixed positions, both of those problems are solved, but the wider spread of the light beam makes it more difficult to get the light exactly where it’s needed, and nowhere else.

This image takes advantage of two Luxli grids to control the warm light in the background and the cool light in the middle ground, and the tighter focus of the Lanceli grids on the left and right sides of the gear and framework that make up the focal point of the image. Nikon D780 with a Nikon 24-120mm f/4G lens at 50mm. 2 minutes, f/7.1, ISO 800.

Honeycomb grids, snoots and barn doors are all light modifiers designed for that purpose. We are fortunate to have the Luxli-designed grid that narrows the light beam by about 50 percent, and now the Lanceli grid that reduces the beam width to about one-third of the original width. The Hex Stack for the Viola is the only grid available for that light, and the ability to stack multiple units makes it super versatile. I should note that it’s useful to have both versions of the Luxli grid, as well as at least two of the stackable Viola grids to meet the needs of the situation at hand.

It’s been exciting to observe and participate in the birth of a new style of lighting over the last few years, and truly exciting that Luxli and other companies have stepped up with groundbreaking products we can use, even if they were not designed specifically for night photographers. On top of that, we have thoughtful and creative people like Jeff working to make these tools even better.

Lance Keimig is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He has been photographing at night for 30 years, and is the author of Night Photography and Light Painting: Finding Your Way in the Dark (Focal Press, 2015). Learn more about his images and workshops at www.thenightskye.com.

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Five Questions: Dark Skies, Light Stands, PCs and More

If you send questions, we’ll send answers. Want proof? See Exhibits 1 through 5 below.

This installment of our “Five Questions” series features inquiries about websites for finding dark skies, light stands, PC computers for photo editing, filter vignetting and a lighting effect.

If you have any questions you would like to throw our way, please contact us anytime. Questions could be about gear, national parks and other photo locations, post-processing techniques, field etiquette, or anything else related to night photography. #SeizeTheNight!


1. Tools for Seeking Dark Skies

Question:

A few of the presenters at the Night Photo Summit referenced the website ClearDarkSky for help in planning night sky photography. Assuming that I will probably have to drive at least two hours one way to reach a certified dark sky preserve from my home, just to photograph only stars and the Milky Way, is it sufficient to just look at the darkness and cloud cover on that website? I see that Dark Sky has similar information, but its forecast components appear to be more related to telescope viewing. — Ray B.

darksitefinder.jpg

Answer:

You can always make a photograph in any condition. Obviously, the darker the sky, the more stars you will see, and the more of the Milky Way you will see in your images. Are you primarily interested in photographing the sky, or the landscape, or both? There are many dark-sky websites you can check (I like DarkSiteFinder), but don’t get too hung up on Bortle numbers—just go out and make some images.

If you’re just doing astro-landscape photography, then find a spot with an interesting landscape/foreground that doesn’t have any artificial light in the immediate area, and see what you get. I think it’s more important to make interesting pictures than to have the darkest sky possible.

On the other hand, if you are mainly interested in photographing the sky and celestial objects (i.e., astrophotography), then use any one of those websites to find the darkest spot within a comfortable driving distance, and go for it.

This screenshot above from DarkSiteFinder has a pin where I live. Even though I’m on the outskirts of an urban area, I can easily see the Milky Way with the naked eye, and it shows up even better in-camera because the light pollution is to the north and Milky Way to the south. — Lance

2. Night Light Stands

Question:

I have been playing with my Luxli Fiddle light but could use a stand to position it better. What type of stand do you use? — M. West

Answer:

A compact and travel light stand is a perfect complement for your Luxli Fiddle. You’ll be able to set it up, finesse the position and then leave it there for repeatability. It has been a game-changing way for many of us at National Parks at Night to level up our Low-level Light Painting. (Though if you’re shooting in national parks, note that many of them require a Special Use Permit for light stands.)

Below is a breakdown of our favorite compact light stands that are easy to pack for your night adventures (you can all their specs compared at this link):

The Impact Reverse is the least expensive and the most basic.

The Manfrotto options offer an adjustable leg, which is helpful on uneven terrain. The Nano Plus will also hold bigger lights if you have any strobes. The Nanopole will let you easily pull out the center column and to use as a boom arm. The Carbon Fiber is the lightest but also most expensive of those mentioned.

While your Luxli Fiddle will screw directly into the light stands with the included 1/4-inch adapter, you will want to add a mini-ball head adapter so you can adjust your light easily. — Gabe

3. PC Preferences

Question:

I’m wondering about your recommendation for a laptop of the non-Apple variety. Do you recommend using a desktop or laptop with external monitor? Space and money are at a premium. — I.B.

Answer:

My personal approach is that I have both a desktop and a laptop.

The desktop is my workhorse—that’s where all my power is (i.e., RAM, higher-grade processor, terabytes of storage space, etc.). My laptop has enough power to run Lightroom and Photoshop effectively when I’m traveling, but doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of my desktop. The reason is that an all-powerful desktop PC is notably less expensive than its performance equivalent in a laptop, and the aforementioned strategy gives me a combined system with “enough” power when I’m on the road and full power when I’m home.

However, that’s not necessarily the best “space and money” option overall. Instead of two computers, you could get just a somewhat-better-than-adequate laptop that you can connect to your larger display when home, as you suggested. For photo editing, I personally recommend a laptop that meets or exceeds these specifications:

  • a calibratable 15-inch display (larger is better for photo editing, but is also heavier for travel)

  • HD (1920 x 1080) resolution or greater (but not 4K, unless you’re also doing video work)

  • 2 GHz processor with 64-bit support

  • 16 GB RAM

  • 2 GB video memory

  • 1 TB internal SSD hard drive

I suggest checking B&H Photo to see what kind of system you can put together for your budget. Go to their Laptops page and enter your desired specs in the left margin, then browse your options, looking for what might fit your budget. Alternatively, just call B&H and speak with someone from the computer team. They’re excellent at guiding you toward a solution based on your needs, and they can even custom-build a desktop or laptop computer. In my experience with B&H for over 25 years, they will not guide you toward something more expensive that you don’t need.

For what it’s worth, since last fall I’ve been using an MSI Creator 15, and I recently obtained an MSI Creator Z16 (pictured above) that I’m eager to take out for a spin. — Chris

4. Perseid Vignettes

Question:

I’m hoping to shoot the Perseids in August and wondered about the Breakthrough Photography filter for light pollution. Do you know it and whether it vignettes? — Wendy K.

vignette meteor.jpg

Answer:

I have not used that particular filter, but I can confidently say that it should not cause vignetting. Light pollution filters inhibit particular color wavelengths that are commonly associated with light pollution. The only way they would vignette is if they have a deep profile that can be seen through a too-wide-angle lens, which good design should prevent.

This is a great year for photographing the Perseids, as they’ll peak on nights when the moon isn’t visible. For more information on how to shoot a meteor shower, be sure to check out our Great Balls of Fire e-book. — Matt

5. Cape Cod Lighting Effect

Question:

I recently saw a presentation you did, and I have a question about the image Chris showed of the dune shack at Cape Cod National Seashore. Was a special “effect” in editing applied to that picture, or was it just your lighting? — K. O’Donnell

Dune shack, Cape Cod National Seashore. © 2017 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens, light painted with a Coast HP7R flashlight. 20 seconds, f/4, ISO 1600.

Dune shack, Cape Cod National Seashore. © 2017 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens, light painted with a Coast HP7R flashlight. 20 seconds, f/4, ISO 1600.

Answer:

No special effects or trick editing—I only lit and shot it. There was some post-processing, of course, but just to tweak exposure and contrast.

That said, I’m not sure if you’re referring to the color of the background or the illumination of the shack, so I’ll address both:

  • The warm tones of the background are caused by the lights of nearby Provincetown bouncing off the clouds. Some night photographers avoid light pollution at all costs; I try to embrace it creatively, and this photo is a good example of how and why.

  • The foreground light coming from an unfiltered Coast HP7R LED flashlight. The light is soft and broad and a little warmer than usual because rather than hitting the shack with a direct beam, I bounced the beam off the top of the sand dune to camera-right, and it’s reflecting back to illuminate the front of the shack. That was a creative solution for working in a tight spot where I couldn’t side-light from outside the frame (because of the slope of the dune), and it came with the added benefit of creating that nice, soft effect. — Chris

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Five Questions: Coast Flashlights, Lightning, Custom Menus and More

Everyone knows the answers to some questions, and below you’ll find five of the answers we know. That might sound impressive, but it took all five of us to answer these, so …

This installment of our “Five Questions” series features inquiries about Coast flashlights, lightning processing, custom menus, books and panos.

If you have any questions you would like to throw our way, please contact us anytime. Questions could be about gear, national parks and other photo locations, post-processing techniques, field etiquette, or anything else related to night photography. #SeizeTheNight!


1: Which Coast is King?

coast_hp5r_master.png

Q: If you could have only one model of the Coast flashlight, what would it be? — Larry B.

A: If I could have only one, it would be the HP5R. It has two brightness settings, is bright but not too bright, feaures a focusing beam and sports a rechargeable battery. For another $10, I'd also get the low-powered G9 and use that for shooting in moonless astro-landscape situations and for seeing in the dark without ruining night vision. — Lance

2: Layering Lightning

Lightning at Devils Tower National Monument. © 2019 Matt Hill. Nikon Z 6 with a Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art lens. Six stacked frames photographed at Bulb, f/8, ISO 200.

Q: There’s a photo on your website you made at Devils Tower—how did you get the lightning in the shot? Did you just stack the exposures in Photoshop then use the Lighten blend mode? Or did you use some light detector to trigger the shots? — Ed F.

A: The former. I composed, set the aperture and ISO for a good lightning strike, then let the camera run through continuous shots. I set the camera to Bulb mode, then I held the shutter open until a bolt hit, and then I closed the exposure and immediately started another.

Why did I just keep the shutter open for, say, 30 seconds each time? I didn’t want too many strikes in one frame, because that would make it harder to select specific strikes to composite later.

As for post-production, your hunch is right— it works exactly like stacking star trails. Open all the images as layers in Photoshop, select all the layers and then change the blend mode to Lighten. I then used layer masks to call out specific strikes and block out everything else. — Matt

3. Custom Menu Contents

Q: Regarding your recent post “Five Field Tips to Make Night Photography Go a Little Smoother,” could you elaborate on which menu options you include on your custom menu? — Larry B.

A: As I mentioned in the post, I set the custom menu in my camera with the settings I use most often, so I can access them quickly in the field. Here is the list of what I include in my Nikon Z 6 custom menu:

For night photography

  • Long Exposure Noise Reduction

  • Monitor Brightness

  • Viewfinder Brightness

For general photography

  • Format Memory Card

  • Auto Bracketing

  • Double Exposure

  • Focus Peaking

  • Clean Image Sensor

For comparison, here’s what Chris includes in his Nikon D5 custom menu:

  • Virtual Horizon

  • Monitor Brightness

  • Long Exposure Noise Reduction

  • Exposure Delay Mode

  • Self-Timer

Remember, every camera is different, so your camera might allow you to easily access some items that I find more difficult to access on mine. You also might not use some features that I do, and vice versa. But this is all exactly why the custom menu is so powerful—it’s custom to exactly what you want! — Tim

4. The Elephant Book in the Room

Q: Thank you for the recent awesome blog post and video on night photography books. That combined three of my favorite things: history, books and art. Another night photography-related book you may find interesting is Thirty Times a Minute by Colleen Plumb. She photographed images of captive elephants projected onto landscapes. I found it a very unique way to shoot at night, and her stories about the elephants are touching. — Vince G.

A: One look at the production and importance of Thirty Times a Minute and I had to add it to my cart! I love that the publisher added a video walk through of the book.

Not all art fits inside a book, and when you look at Colleen's projections, you have to ask how these moving images become two-dimensional stills. I love the “transparency” images, though I'm curious what it would have looked like to have the transparency of the original film placed over where it was projected—like those history books wherein you lift the transparency of what it used to look like to reveal what it looks like now.

I’m glad you like our coverage of our favorite night photography books and the Bookshelf page on our website. Books can be a universal inspiration, and this was a long-overdue project that we were excited to share and that we want to continue to grow. — Gabe

5: Full Moon Pano

Ubehebe Crater, Death Valley National Park. © 2020 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens at 24mm. Eleven stitched frames photographed at 10 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 2500.

Q: Thank you for the many instructive and inspiring blog posts, and particularly for this one about Ubehebe Crater. Either you planned well or were lucky to be there during a full moon. Could you have gotten a good image with quarter moon? Crescent moon? No moon? — Paul B.

A: Did I plan or was I lucky? A little bit of both.

I made that pano during a workshop, which we had planned for a moonlit week. We love light painting under moonlight, and Death Valley has a lot of subject matter conducive to that strategy. But shooting at the crater on that particular date during moonlight was just a matter of using the conditions at hand in the best way possible.

In other words, while planning for a specific photo has plenty of merits, successfully shooting as a long-term endeavor can have less to do with sticking to strict guidelines about when to shoot and more to do with knowing what and how to shoot in different conditions. With the latter approach, I can be productive regardless of the situation. So, I didn’t plan to be at Ubehebe Crater during a full moon so I could shoot that pano; rather, I was at Ubehebe and knew what I could and couldn’t do under the full-moon sky I was presented with.

And yes, I definitely could have made the image under a quarter or crescent moon, when the light is even gentler. I just would have needed to shoot at a higher ISO to keep the stars sharp. Honestly, I may have preferred that, because the sky would have revealed even more stars. Next time! Because successful photography can also be about going back to re-shoot in different conditions. 😃 — Chris

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT